Walking the Ksour of the M'Zab Valley

October 31, 2026

Walking is the best way to see the M’Zab Valley, and most of its old centres are traversed on foot. The lanes are stepped and shaded by arches, the distances are short and the ksour are packed tightly on their hills. The routes below are the main walks, all of them best in the morning or late afternoon.

Beni Isguen old town

This is the best-known walk, and a guide is required. Start at the guides’ office near the East Gate, where hours vary, especially in summer. The route takes in stepped lanes, covered arches, the hilltop minaret and the path to the Bordj Boulila watchtower. It ends at the market square, where a late-afternoon auction is held on certain days. Ask your guide for the timing. Do not smoke inside the walls, do not photograph residents and wear modest clothing with long sleeves. Non-Muslims are reported to be barred from some sections of the town.

Ghardaïa market square and old quarter

The arcaded market square sits below the old town and is lined with stalls selling carpets, copperware, spices and dates. A guide is recommended in the old quarter above it, and wandering alone is discouraged. Keep valuables close and carry dinars in cash.

Melika ridge and cemetery

Melika is a hilltop ksar on a ridge, with a large cemetery of whitewashed graves. The walk is short but steep in places, and the light is best early or late in the day. The cemetery is a place of mourning, so be quiet. After dark you will need a taxi to return.

El Atteuf lanes and palm-grove path

El Atteuf is the oldest ksar, from about 1012, and its lanes lead out to a path through the palm groves. Expect to need a guide in the old centre. In the palm groves, a guide can explain the irrigation channels that share water between gardens. The Sidi Brahim mosque is seen from outside unless your guide says otherwise.

Walking safely and respectfully

Dress modestly, with long sleeves and a scarf in your bag. Women are advised to carry a headscarf for religious areas. Wear sturdy shoes for the stepped lanes, and carry water. Summer is extremely hot, often above 40 to 45 degrees C, and October to April is the comfortable season. Winter nights can approach freezing.

Carry photo ID for checkpoints, leave drones and binoculars at home without authorisation and ask your guide about any areas to avoid. The valley has seen communal tensions in the past, so follow your guide’s advice. See guided walking tours in Ghardaïa , the FCDO safety page and the Routard page on Beni Isguen .