Walking Serbia: Belgrade, Novi Sad and Niš
Serbian cities are compact and mostly flat in the centre, which makes walking the best way to read them. Belgrade needs a hill or two, Novi Sad and Subotica none. Prices are in dinars (RSD), at about 117 RSD to the euro, and Belgrade’s city buses, trams and trolleybuses are free for the legs you do not want to walk. The US rates Serbia Level 2 for crime, and the UK Foreign Office warns that demonstrations can turn violent at short notice, so avoid them and check local news.
Belgrade: Republic Square to Kalemegdan
The classic route is about 2 km and takes two hours at an easy pace. Start at Republic Square with the statue of Prince Mihailo and the National Museum, then walk west along Knez Mihailova, the pedestrian street lined with 19th-century facades and cafes. It ends in the shaded alleys of Kalemegdan Park and the Victor monument, a good place to watch the sunset over the Sava and Danube. The Church of Saint Sava is not on this route: it stands about 2.5 km south in Vračar.
Kosančićev Venac and Dorćol
Kosančićev Venac is the oldest preserved quarter of the city, with cobbled lanes and linden trees. It holds Princess Ljubica’s Residence from 1831 and the Cathedral Church of St Michael the Archangel, whose tombs include those of Vuk Karadžić and Dositej Obradović. The kafana known as the Question Mark opened in 1823. Nearby, a sunken garden marks the site of the old National Library, destroyed in the bombing of 6 April 1941, and it deserves a quiet moment.
Dorćol, once an Ottoman trading district, has the Bajrakli Mosque on Gospodar Jevremova, built around 1575 and the only historic mosque left in the city. In Zemun, walk the riverside promenade on Kej Oslobođenja and climb the cobbled streets to the Gardoš tower. For guided options, browse Belgrade walking tours .
Novi Sad and Petrovaradin
Cross from the old town to Petrovaradin Fortress for river views from the ramparts. Operators sell guided walks listed on visitnovisad.rs , quoted at about 1,400 RSD for a short Petrovaradin walk and 1,800 RSD for a city walk. The Soko train from Belgrade takes 34 to 36 minutes to Petrovaradin or Novi Sad; check srbijavoz.rs for fares.
Subotica and Sremski Karlovci
Subotica has a Secession City Hall, a synagogue that reopened in 2018 and a street of Secession houses, all within an easy loop. The tourist board advertises a free architecture walk, so check which days it runs on visitsubotica.rs . Sremski Karlovci is small enough to see on foot, with the Patriarchate and wine cellars close together. Cellar hours were not confirmed, so ring ahead.
Niš
Walk from Niš Fortress across the Nišava river into the centre, and stop at Kazandžijsko sokače, Tinkers’ Alley, for cafes and kafanas. The Skull Tower, Ćele Kula, is a solemn monument built in 1809 from the skulls of 952 Serbs after the Battle of Čegar, and 58 skulls remain. It costs 300 RSD, or 250 reduced, and is closed on Mondays. The Niš museums site has hours.
Practical tips
Wear shoes for cobbles in Kosančićev Venac and the fortress. Keep dinars for cafes and bakeries, because the euro is not accepted. In churches and monasteries your shoes stay on, but cover shoulders and knees and ask before photographing monks or services.
Read more: sightseeing in Serbia and group activities in Serbia .