Sarajevo Walking Routes: Old Town to Forts
Sarajevo lies along a flat valley floor with steep neighbourhoods rising on both sides, so walking is the natural way to see it. Three routes cover most of the centre. Wear shoes with grip, since cobbles are slick when wet, and keep a little cash for coffee stops, because many small places do not take cards.
Route 1: Baščaršija to Ferhadija (about 2 km, 2 hours)
Start at the Sebilj fountain. Walk down Sarači, then into Kazandžiluk, where coppersmiths hammer trays and coffee sets, and see the Morića Han caravanserai from 1551. Pass the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and its bezistan, a covered Ottoman market. Interior visits to the mosque cost 3 BAM and follow set windows, so confirm them at begovadzamija.ba .
Cross the pavement line known as Meeting of Cultures into Ferhadija. The street turns from Ottoman stone shops to Habsburg stucco. Continue to the Sacred Heart Cathedral, built in 1889, and on to the Eternal Flame, burning since 1946 for the civilian and military dead of the Second World War.
On pavements along this route you may see red resin set into mortar scars. These are Sarajevo Roses, memorials to civilians killed during the 1992 to 1995 siege. They are not decoration, so step around them and be quiet beside them.
Route 2: Miljacka bridges (about 2.5 km, 90 minutes)
Begin at the Vijećnica, the City Hall, which reopened in 2014 after the 1992 fire. Walk the north bank along Obala Kulina bana past the Šeher-Ćehaja Bridge from 1585 and the Latin Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot on 28 June 1914. Carry on past the Čobanija Bridge to the Festina Lente footbridge, whose Latin inscription means “make haste slowly”.
The river itself is shallow and held by stone weirs, so it is a walk beside the water, not a place for boats or swimming.
Route 3: Hillside lanes and forts (about 3 km, 2 hours, uphill)
From Baščaršija climb the steep cobbles of Kovači street. The route passes the Kovači Martyrs’ Cemetery, where uniform white headstones mark soldiers and volunteers who died defending the city, including the grave of Alija Izetbegović. It is a place of mourning, so keep voices low and do not climb or sit on the stones.
Continue up to the Yellow Fortress (Žuta Tabija), an 18th-century bastion with a wide view over the valley. It is free and open all day. Walkers can go on along the ridge to the White Fortress (Bijela Tabija) and return through the Vratnik gates. Mines from the 1990s remain on hillsides and in woods near the old front lines. Keep to roads, paved paths and the signed routes only, never enter abandoned buildings, and use a local guide for anything beyond the established route.
Guided options
If you would rather walk with a guide who can explain the layers of architecture and history, a search such as Sarajevo walking tours lists what is currently offered, and many guides work on a tip basis. Tram line 3 runs from Baščaršija west to Ilidža if your feet get tired.
Practical tips
Allow for the afternoon heat in July and August, and for ice on the hill paths from December to February. Winter smog can be heavy in the valley, so a short walk on a clear day is better than a long one.
Read more: Sightseeing in Sarajevo , Activities in Sarajevo and Sarajevo 3 day itinerary .