Krabi Solo Trips: Dawn Stairs to Ton Sai
Krabi is an easy province to travel alone, because so much of it runs on shared seats. Longtails leave when they fill, songthaews pick up anyone on the roadside, and climbing courses put strangers on the same rope. The best solo moments, though, come when you are the only person awake.
Dawn at Tiger Cave Temple
Wat Tham Suea, about 9 km northeast of Krabi Town, is an active forest monastery, and the stairway to its summit is the finest solo morning in the province. The sign at the base counts about 1,260 steps, and 1,237 is still widely quoted from before a section was extended. Either way, the concrete risers reach 30 cm and most people take 30 to 60 minutes to climb. Set off around 05:45 and you reach the golden stupa and seated Buddha as the sun comes up over the karst.
Cover shoulders and knees, as wraps are available at the base. Carry no food or plastic bags, because the macaques on the lower steps grab them. Keep quiet in the lower valley, where monks live in meditation caves. Entry is free, and donations are welcome.
Getting around on your own
Songthaews between Krabi Town and Ao Nang cost about ฿60 per person, and the airport shuttle bus to Ao Nang about ฿150. For Railay, the shared longtail from Ao Nang beach costs ฿100 and leaves once eight passengers are aboard, so a solo traveller simply waits for a full boat. Fares rise after dark, so cross back before sunset, or stay over: you can search Railay stays on Booking.com for rooms on either side of the peninsula.
Railay and Ton Sai
A night or two on Railay makes solo life easy, since everything is on foot. At low tide, a jungle path leads to Ton Sai, the climbers’ cove, where rustic bamboo cafés serve iced Thai tea and you can watch climbers on the overhangs. Signing up for a beginner climbing course is the quickest way to meet people here.
A kayak of your own
On calm mornings, rent a single sit-on-top kayak on Ao Nang Beach and paddle west around the headland to Pai Plong Bay, or around the Phra Nang headland, at your own pace. Stay close to the cliffs, wear a life jacket and skip it entirely when the sea is choppy. If you would rather go in company, small-group island tours on Viator put you on a boat with other travellers.
The tsunami memorial on Phi Phi Don
If you stay on Ko Phi Phi Don, spend a quiet hour at the Tsunami Memorial Park. The waves of 26 December 2004 crossed the island’s narrow isthmus from both sides and killed more than 2,000 people there, locals, migrant workers and visitors alike. The memorial is free, and a remembrance ceremony is held every 26 December.
Staying safe alone
Scooter rental is everywhere, but Thai roads are among the most dangerous in the world, so wear a helmet, check that your licence and insurance cover motorbikes, and never leave your passport as a deposit. The UK government safety advice for Thailand covers this and the strict cannabis rules. Before you fly, file the free arrival card at the official TDAC portal within the 3 days before arrival, and check the 30-day visa-exempt rule in the UK government entry requirements .
Read more: Krabi walks covers trails you can follow alone, from the Krabi Town riverfront to the Railay paths.
Tip: arrange a driver or taxi for your Tiger Cave climb the evening before, since few rides are on the road before dawn.