A Romantic Break in Utrecht
Utrecht is a good city for two. Its canals sit in sunken streets with brick cellars at water level, many of them now restaurants, and its old monasteries and clinics have become small hotels. Evenings are for slow walks. Most places take card payment only, and prices here are in euros.
Dinner at water level
The Oudegracht and Nieuwegracht have two levels: the street above and a wharf, the werf, beside the water. Terraces on the wharves are the city’s classic date setting, with the cellars behind them built of vaulted brick.
Restaurant Karel 5 at Geertebolwerk 1 occupies the 14th-century monastery that was the headquarters of the Teutonic Order, the Duitse Huis. Chef Leon Mazairac runs the kitchen, and the restaurant is described as Michelin-starred, so check the current guide before you book.
WT Urban Kitchen at Heuveloord 25A, in the Rotsoord district, is in a converted water tower with elevated views and multi-course menus.
Stadskasteel Oudaen at Oudegracht 99 is a medieval townhouse-castle with a brewery in its cellar. Tastings are booked in advance at oudaen.nl .
On the water
Botenverhuur De Rijnstroom at Weg naar Rhijnauwen 2 hires rowboats and Canadian canoes by the hour (a five-person rowboat is 13 euros an hour, a canoe 15). Reserve online and pay by card at rijnstroom.nl . Paddle upstream through the shaded forests of the Amelisweerd estate along the Kromme Rijn, then tie up at Theehuis Rhijnauwen, Rhijnauwenselaan 16 in Bunnik, for pancakes or afternoon tea on the waterside terrace.
For a private cruise in town, electric sloepen need no licence. Greenjoy boats start from 30 euros an hour with a two-hour minimum.
Where to stay
- Grand Hotel Karel V, Geertebolwerk 1: a five-star hotel in a 14th-century monastery, with enclosed gardens.
- The Court Hotel, Korte Nieuwstraat 14: a boutique hotel and the sister property of Mother Goose.
- Mother Goose Hotel, Ganzenmarkt 26: a boutique hotel in two buildings dating from the 14th century. It has no restaurant, and breakfast is served at the Court Hotel.
- Eye Hotel, Wijde Begijnestraat 1 to 3: a 36-room boutique hotel in the building that housed the first Dutch eye clinic.
After dark
The Nieuwegracht is the quiet canal, with gas lanterns, wrought-iron bridges and cellars lit from inside. The Utrecht Lumen trail is a free light-art walk of about 1.5 hours, with projections and lit bridges woven through lanes and under canal tunnels. It runs in the evening, so check the Lumen map for the nights it is lit.
The lower wharves have no railings and a sheer drop to cold water. After a drink, take the upper street home instead of the wharf, and do not swim in the canals.
A daytime pairing
The Rietveld Schröder House, a UNESCO site from 1924, shows colour and sliding walls that still look modern. Visits are by timed slot only, up to 8 people, so book both tickets online at rietveldschroderhuis.nl and allow about 40 minutes.
Read more: Sightseeing in Utrecht adds the Dom Tower and the cloister garden.
Booking help
Hotels in the centre can be compared on Booking.com .