Walking the Old Town of Gjirokaster
The old town of Gjirokaster is made for walking, and a self-guided loop is the best way to see it. The lanes climb a steep hill, the surface is polished limestone cobbles, and the sights sit close together. Fees below are in Albanian lek (ALL), paid in cash.
Before you set off
The cobbles are slippery when wet, so wear sturdy shoes with grip and carry water. If you arrive by bus, the stop is on the SH4 in the new town, and the old bazaar is 1.5 to 2 km uphill. Take a taxi for about 200 to 500 ALL if you want to save your legs for the climb through the old town. Free walking tours are listed online, and you should confirm any meeting time and place with the organiser before you turn up.
A loop through the old town
Çerçiz Topulli Square. Start here, where the Tourist Information office stands. The entrance to the Cold War Tunnel is nearby, near the Municipality building on Rruga Gjin Zenebisi. The tunnel visit is guided, lasts about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about 200 ALL.
The bazaar. Walk up Qafa e Pazarit, the main bazaar lane. The Bazaar Mosque, completed in 1757, stands along the way. Anastas Petridhi’s woodcarving shop and the stone-carving workshop of “Master Ermal” are listed in the same area, so you can see craftwork on the way.
Palorto and the houses. Ismail Kadare House is in the Palorto district, at Rruga Fato Berberi 16, with daily opening from 09:00 to 17:00 and a ticket of 500 ALL. Zekate House, built in 1811 to 1812, is open daily from 08:00 and costs about 300 ALL. Go before about 16:00, because there is no electric light inside. Skënduli House, built in 1823, is shown by the family and costs about 200 to 300 ALL.
The castle. Finish at the top. The gate ticket is about 400 ALL, and the stone is steep and uneven. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours. The castle holds a former prison used in the 20th century, including the communist period, so keep your voice down in that part.
Timing the walk
Allow half a day for the loop with two house visits, and a full day if you add the tunnel and the castle. Winter hours are shorter. The tunnel closes at 14:00 from November to March, and the castle may be closed on Mondays, so start with the places that close first.
Booking help
Search for a guided old-town walk on GetYourGuide . The official Cold War Tunnel page lists its seasonal hours.
Read more: sights and museums and guided visits .