Walking Berat: Mangalem, Castle, Gorica

Walking in Berat

Berat is a town to explore on foot. The old quarters are stepped lanes paved with river cobbles, too narrow for buses, and most of what you come to see lies within a short, steep walk of the river. Wear shoes with real grip: the stones are polished smooth and slippery after rain or dew. In July and August walk early in the morning or in the evening and carry water.

Walk 1: Mangalem up to the castle

Start at the Bachelors’ Mosque, built in 1827 on the riverbank in Mangalem, with paintings on its façade. From here the lanes climb between white houses with rows of windows, over cobbles and steps, to the castle gate. It is a short distance but a stiff climb, so take it slowly and stop to look back over the river. There may be a small cash fee at the gate; carry some lek.

Walk 2: inside the castle walls

The castle is a living neighbourhood, so keep your voice down and leave courtyards to their owners. A loop inside the walls takes in:

  • the Onufri Museum in the 18th-century Cathedral of the Dormition (about 400 lek; often closed on Mondays);
  • Holy Trinity Church, 13th to 14th century, on the slope below the upper walls;
  • St Mary of Blachernae, 13th century;
  • the ruins of the 15th-century Red Mosque;
  • the medieval water cistern;
  • the Acropolis, the highest part of the citadel, with wide views.

Some walls and viewpoints have unfenced drops. The Berat municipality’s sights page lists the churches and their dates if you want to plan the loop.

Walk 3: the lower town mosques

Back down by the river, the King Mosque from the end of the 15th century and the Halveti Teqe, rebuilt in 1782, stand together. Visit outside prayer times, cover shoulders and knees, and remove your shoes. The Lead Mosque, from the 16th century, is nearby.

Walk 4: over the bridge to Gorica

Cross the seven-arched Gorica Bridge to the traditionally Christian quarter. Gorica is quieter than Mangalem. Its churches of St Spyridon and St Thomas open daily and are free. From this bank you get the classic view back across the river to Mangalem’s windows, best in the late afternoon and at dusk.

Walk 5: the evening xhiro

In the early evening, much of Berat strolls along Bulevardi Republika beside the river. It is flat, free and the best place to watch the town at leisure. Stop for coffee or ice cream, paid in lek.

With a guide

Local guides lead walks through the castle and quarters and can explain the churches, the icons and the town’s mixed Muslim and Christian history. Prices depend on the guide and group, so ask before you set off. Compare options on GetYourGuide .

Read more: Berat sightseeing and romantic Berat .