Travel advice. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where landmines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department lists Level 3, Reconsider Travel. The Armenia and Russia land borders are closed, so visitors arrive by air. Every walk below is in Baku, Sheki or Lahij, outside those districts.

Travel advice. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia, and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where mines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department lists Azerbaijan at Level 3, Reconsider Travel. The land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed, and visitors fly in. The sights below are in Baku and in the north, west and mountains, outside those districts.

Travel advice for couples. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where landmines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department rates Azerbaijan Level 3, Reconsider Travel. The Armenia and Russia land borders are closed, and couples arrive by air. The places below, in Baku, Sheki and the Gabala mountains, are outside those areas.

Travel advice. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia, and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where mines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department lists the country at Level 3, Reconsider Travel. Land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed; the Georgia and Iran land crossings are temporarily closed, so fly in.

Travel advice for families. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia, and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where landmines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department lists Level 3, Reconsider Travel. The land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed, and families arrive by air. Every outing below is in or near Baku, or in the northern and western mountains, outside those areas.

Travel advice. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of the Armenia border and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, because of landmines and unexploded ordnance. The US State Department rates Azerbaijan Level 3, Reconsider Travel. Land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed; air entry is normal. The day trips below head south, east and north-west of Baku, well clear of those districts.

Before you book a tour. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of the Armenia border and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts hit by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where mines and unexploded ordnance remain; the US lists Azerbaijan at Level 3 (Reconsider Travel). Land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed, and visitors fly in. The tours described here stay around Baku, Absheron and Gobustan, away from those areas.

Travel advice. The UK FCDO advises against all travel within 5 km of Azerbaijan’s border with Armenia, and against all but essential travel to the south-western districts affected by the 2020 and 2023 conflicts, where landmines and unexploded ordnance remain. The US State Department lists Azerbaijan at Level 3, Reconsider Travel. The land borders with Armenia and Russia are closed, so ordinary visitors arrive by air. Every place below lies in or around Baku, Gobustan, Sheki and the mountains, outside those areas.

Ask about carpet weaving in Sheki and you will get a puzzled look. That craft belongs to other Azerbaijani regions; Sheki’s real workshop tradition runs through glass, silk, sugar and copper instead. Shebeke: glass without glue The signature craft here is shebeke, stained-glass window screens built by hand-carving interlocking grooves into walnut and boxwood, then sliding in cut pieces of colored glass so the whole panel locks together through geometric tension alone, with zero nails, screws or glue anywhere in it.

Long wooden tables in a Silk Road courtyard turn out to be the best group seating Sheki has to offer, better than any restaurant booking for six or more. Tea, backgammon and a long table The Yukhari Karavansaray, once one of the largest caravanserais on the Silk Road, keeps its courtyard and public tea house open 11:00 to 19:00 with free entry for non-guests, and its long communal tables are built for groups rather than couples.