Nobody in Alicante blinks at a solo diner pulling up a stool at a market counter on a Saturday afternoon, because half the city is doing exactly the same thing during the tardeo. The Saturday tardeo, on your own Alicante is the acknowledged home of the tardeo, the local habit of socializing in daylight rather than waiting for night. It starts around 13:00 to 14:00 at Plaza 25 de Mayo behind Mercado Central, where outdoor terraces fill with vermouth, draft cañas and small plates of marinated olives and marcona almonds; striking up conversation at a shared bar counter here is entirely normal, not an imposition.

Every topographic height printed on a Spanish map traces back to a brass plaque on the floor of Alicante’s City Hall, which is a strange thing to learn standing in a municipal foyer that most visitors walk straight past. Castillo de Santa Bárbara The fortress crowning Mount Benacantil at 166 meters is free to enter, walls, ramparts and exhibition rooms included; only the tunnel elevator from opposite Postiguet Beach costs anything, at €2.

Postiguet Beach sits close enough to the old town that a family can go from castle battlements to sandcastles in the time it takes to walk downhill, which is the main reason Alicante works so well with young kids in tow. Beach first Postiguet has gentle, shallow water, summer lifeguards, and shaded climbing frames right on the sand, all a few minutes from the marina. Playa de San Juan, a TRAM ride north on lines L4 or L5, is bigger and windier, with mini-golf and wide paths for scooters alongside its 3 kilometers of open beach.

Six genuinely different day trips fan out from Alicante inside two hours of travel, and the right one depends more on whether you want a boat, a train or a rental car than on how much time you have. By ferry: Isla de Tabarca Cruceros Kontiki catamarans cross from Puerto de Alicante to Spain’s smallest inhabited island in 50 to 60 minutes, for about €24 round trip on an open return.

Most of the crowd on the last Tabarca ferry back to Alicante leaves around 18:15, and the couples who stay behind get the island’s stone streets to themselves until the next boat arrives the following morning. An island once the day-trippers leave Cruceros Kontiki ’s open-return ticket, about €24 round trip, lets you take an afternoon catamaran out to Isla de Tabarca and simply not get on the boat back. Once the last scheduled sailing clears the harbor, the island quiets down to its roughly 50 permanent residents; check into Hotel Boutique Isla de Tabarca, in the restored 18th-century governor’s house, and have a slow dinner of caldero tabarquino, the local two-stage fish and rice dish, before walking the walled village under a genuinely dark sky.