Shanghai, China
Shanghai will make you feel like a tourist trap magnet on day one
Land at Pudong, get hustled by a taxi tout before you’ve cleared the terminal doors, and you’ll wonder if the whole city is a scam. It isn’t. Shanghai is one of the easiest big Asian cities to navigate once you know where the traps are set, and I’m going to tell you exactly where.
Skip the Maglev, it’s a toy
Everyone photographs the Maglev’s speedometer hitting 431km/h and calls it the highlight of their trip. Fine, ride it once for the novelty. Just know it only runs from Pudong Airport to Longyang Road station, nowhere near downtown or the Bund. You’ll pay Y50 (Y40 with a same-day flight ticket) for an eight-minute blast, then drag your suitcase onto Metro Line 2 anyway to actually get anywhere. With luggage, a direct taxi or Metro Line 2 the whole way is just smarter. The Maglev is a carnival ride, not transport.
Speaking of taxis: at Pudong, ignore anyone who approaches you before the official rank. They’ll quote a flat “special price” two or three times the meter rate, or claim the regular queue is closed. It’s never closed. Walk to the marked taxi rank, get in a teal Dazhong or turquoise Qiangsheng cab, and insist on the meter. A legit ride to the Bund runs about Y180-220 with tolls, 45-60 minutes. Didi works too and is usually cheaper, with an English interface that takes foreign cards.
The Bund is free and best when everyone else is asleep
Go at dawn before the tour groups, or after dark when Pudong’s skyline lights up across the water between roughly 7 and 10pm. Midday is just a wall of selfie sticks. It costs nothing and never closes, so there’s no excuse to only see it once.
Yu Garden is worth the Y40 entry, genuinely, all carved rockeries and koi ponds. The bazaar surrounding it is not worth your time or money: fake antiques, inflated prices, and stalls trading on the Nanxiang soup dumpling name that have nothing to do with the original inside the garden walls. Pay the garden fee, skip the shopping.
Shanghai Tower’s 118th floor observation deck runs about Y180 (up to Y199 on holidays), open roughly 8:30am to 9:30pm. It’s the tallest view in the city and worth doing once, but check the smog forecast first or you’re paying to look at grey soup.
The Shanghai Museum East branch out in Pudong is the one to prioritize now: it’s free, and since September 2024 you no longer need to book ahead, just walk in with your passport. The original People’s Square branch still requires a WeChat reservation, which is one more reason to head to the newer site instead.
For neighborhoods, the French Concession (Xuhui and Jing’an, think Wukang Road and Anfu Road) is where you actually want to spend unstructured hours, cafes and plane trees and no agenda required. Tianzifang is the scrappier, artsier laneway district; Xintiandi is its polished, expensive cousin built from reconstructed shikumen houses. Don’t confuse the two. Xintiandi is worth a walk-through for the architecture, not a meal, because everything there is priced for expats on corporate cards. Eat in the French Concession instead.
Eat the dumplings, skip the tea ceremony
Jia Jia Tang Bao is the xiaolongbao spot locals actually queue for, Y20-30 a basket, cash or mobile pay, no frills. Din Tai Fung is everywhere and it’s good, but it’s a Taiwanese chain, not a Shanghai original, and you’re paying Y80-120 for the polish. Go once if you want a clean, reliable meal; don’t mistake it for local culture. For shengjianbao, the pan-fried cousin of soup dumplings, Yang’s Fry Dumpling is the move at Y15-25.
Now the warning that matters most: near the Bund and East Nanjing Road, friendly strangers, often presenting as students, will ask to practice English and invite you to a “traditional tea ceremony.” It ends with a bill for Y3,000 to Y10,000-plus and someone blocking the door. A real tea ceremony costs Y50-200 at a proper teahouse. Never follow a stranger to an unnamed venue, and always demand a printed, priced menu before you sit down. The gallery/art-student version of this scam works the same way with overpriced prints instead of tea. One sentence of warning kills it, which is why I’m giving it to you now.
Money and connectivity actually work now
Alipay and WeChat Pay both let foreign Visa, Mastercard, and JCB cards bind directly via your passport, no Chinese bank account required, and have done since mid-2023. Transactions under Y200 are fee-free; above that you’ll eat roughly 3%. Set this up before you land, because there have been reports of stricter verification checks in late 2025 that can take 24-72 hours to clear. Bring backup cash or a UnionPay-compatible card just in case.
The Great Firewall is real and blocks Google, Gmail, Maps, WhatsApp, Instagram, Facebook, and X. Install and test a VPN before you arrive, since you can’t download one once you’re inside China. Apple Maps and Amap work fine locally without one.
If you’re from one of 55-plus eligible countries (US, UK, EU, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Korea, Brazil, and others), you get 240 hours, ten full days, of visa-free transit through Pudong or Hongqiao, covering Shanghai plus Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. That’s enough to fold in Suzhou or Hangzhou as day trips without touching a visa application, as long as you register at entry and hold a confirmed onward ticket.
Day trips: pick Suzhou over Hangzhou if you only get one
Suzhou is a 25-30 minute bullet train from Hongqiao station, frequent departures, and its classical gardens are genuinely worth the trip. Hangzhou and West Lake take 45-55 minutes each way and are doable in a day, but it’s tight and the city rewards an overnight you probably don’t have. If you’re choosing one, choose Suzhou.
Zhujiajiao water town is closer still, about an hour on Metro Line 17, free canal-side wandering with Y60-90 combo tickets for the gardens. Good half-day, don’t overthink it.
What doesn’t fit into a Shanghai trip: Huangshan is too far, deep Nanjing sightseeing needs its own dedicated days, and trying to combine Zhouzhuang with Suzhou in one day just means you’ll resent both.
When to go, when to avoid
Late March through May and September through November are the sweet spots, clear skies and manageable heat. Summer is a wet blanket, 30-35C with brutal humidity, and the plum rain season (mid-June to mid-July) adds weeks of drizzle on top. Skip Golden Week, October 1-7, entirely; every sight becomes a crowd-crush and hotel prices spike. Chinese New Year in late January or February empties the city out and closes some services, which some travelers actually prefer.
Book a hotel and check in with your passport; registration with local police happens automatically at the front desk, you don’t need to do anything extra. That’s it. Get to the Bund before the crowds wake up.