Almaty, Kazakhstan
Almaty sits at the foot of the Zailiysky Alatau range of the Tian Shan Mountains, at an altitude of 650 to 900 metres, which means snow-capped peaks are visible from the city centre on any clear day. It received more than 1.14 million tourists in the first half of 2025 alone, a 6.5 percent increase year on year, largely because it is finally on the radar of travellers who have exhausted the more obvious Central Asian routes. The city is more polished and expensive than most of its Central Asian neighbours, has a serious restaurant scene, and offers access to genuinely extraordinary mountain terrain within an hour’s drive.
Getting There and Visa
Almaty International Airport (ALA) is 20 km north of the city centre. A taxi to the centre costs around KZT 4,000 to 6,000 (approximately USD 8 to 12) using the InDrive or Yandex Taxi apps, which are consistently cheaper than flagging a cab at arrivals. The official airport taxi desk charges more. Allow 30 to 45 minutes for the journey.
Citizens of most EU countries, the USA, the UK, Australia, and many others can enter Kazakhstan visa-free for 14 to 90 days (the exact duration depends on your passport). Check the current list before travel, as it expands regularly. For nationalities that still require a visa, Kazakhstan’s e-visa system processes applications within five to seven business days and is straightforward to use online.
Getting Around the City
Almaty has a metro (currently two lines), buses, and a widely used network of shared taxis (marshrutkas). The Yandex Taxi and InDrive apps are the most practical options for independent travellers; fares within the city typically run KZT 800 to 2,000. The metro is useful for reaching the central Green Bazaar area (Zhibek Zholy station) and several other major points, but does not yet cover the mountain-facing southern part of the city.
Mountain Attractions
Medeu
Medeu is a Soviet-era ice rink 15 km south of the city at 1,691 metres altitude, making it the highest skating rink in the world. Entry costs KZT 2,000 to 3,000 for adults (about USD 4 to 6), with skate rental available on site. It is open daily from 10 am to 10 pm. Skating here in winter with the Zailiysky Alatau peaks directly above is one of the better sporting experiences in Central Asia. The 842-step staircase up the retaining dam next to the rink is a favourite workout spot for locals; it also gives a good view over the rink and surrounding valley.
Shymbulak Ski Resort
Immediately above Medeu, reachable via the gondola from the Medeu station or by road, Shymbulak (also written Chimbulak) is Central Asia’s largest ski resort. The gondola from Medeu to the main Shymbulak base station costs approximately KZT 2,500 to 3,500 return. Full-day ski passes for adults run approximately KZT 22,500 (around USD 44). The ski season runs from December to mid-April depending on snow conditions. In summer, the resort operates for hiking and mountain biking; lifts run in the warmer months for non-skiers who want mountain access. The piste count is modest by Alpine standards but the scenery is legitimate.
A practical note: on weekends in winter the road from Almaty to Medeu and Shymbulak clogs badly. Leave before 9 am or after 2 pm, or take the gondola from the city terminal at the Medeu station via Yandex.
Kok-Tobe Hill
Kok-Tobe is a 1,100-metre hill on the eastern edge of the city, accessed by cable car from the Al-Farabi promenade. The cable car costs KZT 8,000 return (KZT 4,000 one-way) for adults. At the top there is a viewing platform, a small amusement park with a Ferris wheel, a Soviet-era broadcast tower, and panoramic views of the Almaty grid with the mountains behind. It is touristy but legitimately worth doing for the view, particularly at sunset.
Hiking in the Zailiysky Alatau
The mountain terrain south of Almaty is extensive and accessible. The most popular day hike is the trail from Shymbulak station to the Big Almaty Lake (Bolshoye Almatinskoe Ozero), a high-altitude reservoir at 2,511 metres with glacially clear water and mountain reflections. The trail is well-marked and takes three to four hours each way from Shymbulak. A shorter and easier option is the walk up the Butakovsky Gorge from the edge of the city, which takes about two hours up and is free.
Green Bazaar (Zelyony Bazaar)
The Green Bazaar on Zhibek Zholy is the central market of Almaty and one of the best food markets in the former Soviet space. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 8 am to 7 pm. The main building covers fresh meat, dairy, and prepared foods; the building behind it handles fruit, vegetables, spices, and nuts. The lower floor of the second building is less visited by tourists and more used by locals, with better prices and a calmer atmosphere.
Specific things worth buying: Aport apples, a variety cultivated in the Almaty region since the late 19th century with a distinctive size and sweetness; sun-dried apricots and raisins from the Central Asian steppe; kurt (small dried sour milk balls that are the traditional Central Asian trail snack); and Kazakh honey, which varies significantly by region and flower source. Most vendors will let you taste before you buy. Prices are negotiable for non-food items; the fruit and vegetable section runs on fixed prices.
Where to Eat
Almaty’s restaurant scene has improved substantially over the past five years and now covers a genuine range of quality levels.
Kazakh and Central Asian
Kishlak is a restaurant that presents Central Asian food, including Uzbek plov, samsa from the tandoor, and shashlik, in a setting that evokes a village courtyard. NAVAT (multiple branches) is the most widely recommended spot for beshbarmak, the national dish of boiled meat (horse or beef) with flat noodles and sorpa broth, served at a mid-range price point. Baursak City specialises in Kazakh cuisine and is consistently recommended by locals; baursak (small fried dough balls served with tea and accompaniments) are the starting point for any meal here.
Beshbarmak specifically: this is a dish traditionally eaten communally and with the hands. Ordering it at a restaurant is not quite the same as eating it at someone’s home, but it gives a clear sense of the flavour. The meat is typically horse (kazy), lamb, or beef depending on the restaurant; ask before ordering if you have a preference.
Shashlik
Shashlik Dvor (Shashlik Yard) is a no-frills grill restaurant operating on the principle that correctly marinated meat over real coals needs no elaboration. Lunch here costs KZT 2,500 to 4,000 per person. This is the style of eating that Almaty locals do on weekends, and the unadorned presentation is part of the point.
Uyghur cuisine
The city has a significant Uyghur community, and lagman (hand-pulled noodles in a rich lamb broth with stir-fried vegetables) is one of the most distinctive dishes available. Several small Uyghur restaurants operate in the Old Square area. A bowl of lagman costs KZT 1,500 to 2,500.
Zenkov Cathedral and Panfilov Park
The Zenkov Cathedral, built in 1907 entirely from local Tian Shan fir wood without nails, is one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world at 56 metres. It survived the 1910 earthquake and remains in active use. The cathedral sits within Panfilov Park, a large urban park named for the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen who died near Moscow in 1941. A flame of eternal remembrance and a memorial complex occupy the park’s northern end. Entry to both the park and cathedral is free. The combination of Russian imperial architecture, Soviet memorial, and mountain backdrop makes this one of the more compositionally interesting public spaces in the former Soviet Union.
Where to Stay
Luxury: Rixos Almaty on Seifullina Boulevard is the most established luxury option (from KZT 85,000 per night, around USD 165), with a full spa, multiple restaurants, and central location.
Mid-range: Hotel Kazakhstan, a distinctive 1977 Soviet Modernist tower on Dostyk Avenue, has been renovated and offers comfortable mid-range rooms with strong views. The Renion chain operates several well-located properties in Almaty from around KZT 40,000 per night.
Budget: Almaty has a functioning hostel scene; the Old Town Hostel near the Green Bazaar is reliable from around KZT 8,000 per dormitory bed.
Practical Notes
Currency: Kazakhstan Tenge (KZT). As of mid-2025, the rate is approximately 500 KZT to 1 USD. Cash is widely needed; ATMs in the city centre are reliable for Visa and Mastercard. Russian cards are not accepted.
Language: Kazakh is the official state language; Russian remains the dominant everyday language for most Almaty residents. English is increasingly spoken in restaurants and hotels but limited elsewhere. Cyrillic is the writing system; learning to read the alphabet (which takes a few hours) is practically useful for navigating street signs.
Altitude: Almaty city itself is at a moderate altitude (750 to 900 m) that causes no problems. Shymbulak at 2,200 m and the higher mountain trails above 3,000 m require acclimatisation time if you have come from sea level. Day trips are generally fine; multi-day mountain treks require more preparation.
Best Time to Visit: May to June and September offer the best combination of clear mountain views, moderate temperatures, and avoiding the peak summer heat. July and August are hot in the city but excellent for mountain hiking. December to March is ski season and the city is cold but clear; the Tian Shan looks extraordinary under snow.
Internet and VPN: Russian and Chinese social media and some Western platforms have had intermittent accessibility issues. Install a VPN before travelling. Standard international apps including Google, WhatsApp, and Instagram generally work without VPN in Kazakhstan, but having one as a backup is sensible.
The clearest sign that Almaty has changed as a travel destination is the quality of the coffee. A city where the cafes were adequate five years ago now has specialty roasters on central blocks doing genuinely good espresso. It is a small indicator, but it reflects a broader shift in a city that knows it is attracting a different kind of visitor than it used to.