Windermere

Windermere, Lake District

Windermere is England’s largest natural lake, 10.5 miles long and about a mile wide at its broadest point. The town of Windermere sits on the hill above, connected by a short road to Bowness-on-Windermere on the shoreline. Most visitors end up in Bowness, which has the piers, the ferry terminals, and the lakeside restaurants.

The Lake District became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017, recognising the pastoral landscape that inspired Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Beatrix Potter. The crowds it now attracts are Wordsworth-level intense in summer. July and August on a bank holiday weekend: traffic queues, car parks at capacity, queues for boat hire. September and October, or any weekday outside peak season, are substantially better.

What to See and Do

Lake Windermere boat trips are the default Bowness activity. Windermere Lake Cruises runs ferries between Bowness, Ambleside (north end), and Lakeside (south end). A single route takes about 30-45 minutes. The views of the Lakeland fells from the water are the point rather than any specific destination.

Orrest Head, reached via a short but steep path starting near Windermere station, gives the best panoramic view of the lake and surrounding fells. The walk takes about 30-40 minutes from the station. Worth doing on any clear morning.

Windermere Jetty Museum on the lake shore has a collection of historic boats ranging from early steam launches to pleasure craft. The building itself, designed by Carmody Groarke, was completed in 2019 and is architecturally notable.

Wray Castle on the western shore (accessible by ferry from Bowness) is a mid-Victorian Gothic folly managed by the National Trust. The Beatrix Potter connection: she spent childhood holidays here. It’s good for families with children and the grounds have views across the lake.

Ambleside, at the north end of the lake, is worth an afternoon. Better independent shops and restaurants than Bowness, and the starting point for several serious fell walks including Loughrigg Fell.

Eating

The Wateredge Inn at Ambleside sits right on the lake shore and has a good menu with local ingredients. Worth booking ahead in summer.

The Oakley Arms is the traditional pub food option, with Sunday roast and locally sourced dishes.

Zefferelli in Ambleside (not Windermere town) is a reliable Italian restaurant with an arts cinema attached. Good for an evening meal.

For something quick, there’s a branch of Hawkshead Fish and Chips in several locations; the fish is decent and the chips are properly chunky.

Grasmere Gingerbread Shop in the village of Grasmere (about 15 km north) has been producing the same recipe since 1854. The gingerbread is unique, somewhere between a biscuit and a cake with a strong ginger kick. Buy several; they travel well.

Staying

The Wild Boar Inn is a countryside hotel about 5 km from Windermere town, with comfortable rooms and a good restaurant.

Lincoln House Private Hotel is smaller, quieter, and well-regarded for breakfast.

Briarbank Guest House is a Victorian property with the honest, good-value guest house format that the Lakes does well.

Budget: plenty of B&Bs in both Windermere and Ambleside, ranging from adequate to excellent. Book ahead from May through September.

Getting There

Train from London Euston to Oxenholme (about 2.5 hours), then a connecting service to Windermere. By car from Manchester, about 90 minutes on the M6. The main car parks in Bowness fill by late morning on summer weekends. The Go Lakes bus service covers the main villages once you’re there.