West Norwegian Fjords Geirangerfjord and N R Yfjord

Geirangerfjord and Naeroyfjord: Two Fjords, Two Experiences, One UNESCO Listing

Norway has 1,190 fjords. Two of them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Geirangerfjord in More og Romsdal county and Naeroyfjord in Vestland, listed jointly in 2005. They are geologically similar – both glacially carved inlets with walls rising over a thousand metres from water level – but they differ considerably in character. Geirangerfjord is more spectacular, more photographed, and considerably more crowded with cruise ships. Naeroyfjord is narrower, more remote-feeling, and more rewarding for visitors who travel independently.

The practical difference: on days when multiple large cruise ships anchor in Geiranger, the village of 250 permanent residents is overwhelmed by passengers. Up to 200 cruise ships per year use the fjord; checking cruise schedules at the tourist information office before you go can mean the difference between a memorable landscape and a queue.

Geirangerfjord

The fjord runs 15 kilometres inland from the outer Storfjord to Geiranger village, with walls on both sides reaching 1,400 metres. The Seven Sisters (De Syv Soestre) waterfall on the south wall – seven separate streams falling in parallel – and the Suitor waterfall directly opposite on the north wall are the two most photographed features. The names reflect a romantic Norwegian folk interpretation: seven sisters being courted by the solitary suitor across the water.

The Ornevegen (Eagle Road) descends from the plateau to the fjord through eleven hairpin bends with long views down the fjord at every turn. The Geiranger Skywalk at Mount Dalsnibba (1,476 metres elevation, accessible via the Nibbevegen toll road at NOK 250 per car) gives an aerial perspective of the entire fjord system.

The Flam Railway and Naeroyfjord

Naeroyfjord is part of the Sognefjord system, Norway’s longest fjord at 204 kilometres. The Naeroyfjord branch runs about 18 kilometres from Gudvangen to the wider Aurlandsfjord near Flam.

The Flam Railway (Flamsbana) is one of the steepest standard-gauge railways in the world: 20 kilometres from Myrdal (866 metres elevation on the Bergen-Oslo line) to Flam at sea level, with a gradient reaching 5.5 percent. The 60-minute journey passes the Kjosfossen waterfall where the train stops for photographs. With around 500,000 passengers per year, it is Norway’s most visited tourist attraction. Tickets cost NOK 380 one-way (about USD 35), bookable at vy.no. In high season (June to August), book several weeks ahead.

From Flam, ferries run along the Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord. The ferry to Gudvangen takes about two hours and gives the best water-level view of the Naeroyfjord. NOK 350 to 450 per adult. The standard tourist circuit combines the Flam Railway one-way and the ferry one-way into a full day’s journey.

Stegastein viewpoint is a cantilevered platform above Aurlandsfjord on the Aurlandsvegen mountain road, extending 30 metres out from the hillside at 650 metres elevation with glass balustrade and straight-down views to the fjord. Open late May through October.

Kayaking the Naeroyfjord

Paddling the Naeroyfjord is the best way to experience it. The walls rising vertically from the water, the silence between ferry passages, and the proximity to waterfalls from a kayak are qualitatively different from anything you get on a ferry. Njord Adventures in Flam and operators in Gudvangen rent kayaks and run guided tours; a guided day tour costs around NOK 1,200 to 1,500 per person. A morning paddle before the afternoon ferry traffic starts is the right timing.

Where to Eat and Stay

Brasserie Posten in Flam is in the old post office building and serves Norwegian standards – reindeer, gravlax, fjord-caught fish – with mains at NOK 180 to 280.

Fretheim Hotel in Flam has been the main accommodation since 1896; the historical wing has atmosphere. Rooms from NOK 1,400 to 2,200 per night.

Union Hotel in Geiranger has an outdoor pool with views down the fjord that justify the room premium.

Practical Notes

May and September have nearly as good weather as peak summer with significantly fewer visitors and lower prices. Bergen is the practical base city for both fjords: 4 hours from Flam by train and ferry, 3.5 hours from Geiranger by the scenic mountain route. The Norway in a Nutshell circuit (Oslo to Bergen via Flam railway and ferry) is a packaged version of the best fjord journey; book at fjordtours.com.