The Waterloo Battlefield, Belgium

The Battle of Waterloo on 18 June 1815 ended Napoleon Bonaparte’s Hundred Days campaign, ended his career, and reshaped the political map of Europe. About 47,000 men were killed or wounded in a single day across a few square kilometres of Belgian farmland. The battlefield south of Brussels is remarkably well-preserved for a site this close to a major city, and the main monument, the Butte du Lion (Lion’s Mound), has anchored the area’s identity as a heritage site for two centuries.

The Butte du Lion

The artificial mound was constructed between 1820 and 1826 from soil taken from the battlefield itself, which means the original topography was somewhat altered in the process (a point that has irritated historians ever since). The mound rises 41 metres above the field. The 226 steps to the top are manageable; the view over the surrounding farmland gives a clear sense of the battlefield’s scale and the relative positions of the opposing armies.

At the base, the Memorial 1815 visitor centre opened in 2015 for the bicentennial. It houses an extensive collection of artefacts, weapons, and uniforms alongside an immersive audiovisual presentation. Combined ticket for the Butte du Lion and visitor centre is around €18. The old circular panoramic painting building adjacent to the mound predates the visitor centre by over a century; the 110-metre-circumference painting depicting the battle is genuinely impressive as an artefact of 19th-century mass-media spectacle.

The Battlefield Itself

Beyond the main mound complex, the battlefield spreads across several kilometres of working farmland. The main positions are marked with explanatory panels. Hougoumont Farm, held by Wellington’s forces for most of the day at enormous cost, has been partially restored and is open to visitors. The farm’s defence played a significant role in the battle’s outcome, and the chapel within it survived the fire that destroyed most of the other buildings. La Belle Alliance, the inn where Napoleon observed the battle’s opening, still stands on the main Brussels-Charleroi road.

Walking the battlefield takes 2-3 hours for the main circuit. Guided tours by bicycle or on foot are available from the visitor centre.

The Wellington Museum

The Wellington Museum in the town of Waterloo (distinct from the battlefield area 3 kilometres south) occupies the inn where the Duke of Wellington wrote his post-battle dispatches on the night of 18 June. The building has been preserved largely as it was and contains a detailed exhibition on Wellington’s campaign. Entry around €9. Less visited than the main monument and quieter as a result.

Getting There

The battlefield is about 20 kilometres south of Brussels. From Brussels-Midi station, the W train runs to Braine-l’Alleud (about 30 minutes, €5), from where a shuttle bus or taxi covers the last 3 kilometres to the visitor centre. By car, take the E5/A4 motorway south from Brussels and exit for Waterloo; the Butte du Lion is well-signposted.

Direct bus service (Bus W) runs from Brussels Midi to the Waterloo battlefield visitor centre on weekdays and more frequently on weekends. Journey time is about 45 minutes.

Eating and Staying

The town of Waterloo has a good selection of restaurants along the main Chaussee de Bruxelles. Belgian cuisine here leans on the regional standards: moules-frites, carbonnade flamande (beef stewed in Belgian ale with thyme and bay leaf), and grey shrimp croquettes. Lunch at a brasserie in Waterloo town runs about €15-25 for a main course.

Brussels makes the most practical overnight base: 20 minutes from the battlefield by train and full of good hotels, restaurants, and the rest of what Belgium’s capital offers. If you want to stay locally, the town of Waterloo has several guesthouses and the Martin’s Grand Hotel in nearby Genval is a more upscale option.