Wadi Rum, Jordan

T.E. Lawrence described the valley in 1917 as vast and echoing and God-like. It still is. Wadi Rum is a desert valley cut into sandstone and granite in southern Jordan, about 60 km east of Aqaba, and the combination of scale, colour, and silence gives it a quality that is difficult to convey before you have experienced it. The red and orange rock formations – narrow gorges, natural arches, towering 300-metre cliffs, plains of coloured sand – have been used as a stand-in for Mars in multiple films, which is a geographically accurate representation in terms of palette if not atmosphere. The UNESCO dual World Heritage listing (natural and cultural, 2011) covers 74,000 hectares that have been inhabited for at least 12,000 years; Nabataean petroglyphs are carved into rock faces throughout the protected zone.

The protected area covers 720 square kilometres and receives less than 3 days of rain per year. As of 2025, visitor pressure is lighter than at comparable Middle Eastern destinations, making it a relatively uncrowded experience.

Getting In

All visitors must report to the Wadi Rum Visitor Centre at Rum village, accessible from the Desert Highway. Beyond the village, the interior is accessible only with a licensed Bedouin guide or on guided jeep tours arranged from the village. Most visitors arrive from Aqaba (about 1 hour) or from Petra (about 2 hours overland). The Jordan Pass covers visa fees for most nationalities plus admission to both Petra and Wadi Rum, and typically pays for itself on those two entries alone.

Jeep Tours

Jeep tours are the standard and correct approach. Bedouin guides from the Rum village community operate pickup trucks with seating in the load bed. Half-day (3 hours), full-day (6-7 hours), and overnight versions cover progressively more ground.

Standard stops include Khazali Canyon (ancient Nabataean inscriptions in a narrow slot canyon), Lawrence’s Spring (water source in a cliff face), Um Sabatah (Lawrence of Arabia film location), the rock arches in the central desert, and high dunes in the Um Adaami area. Additional activities include camel rides, sandboarding, and hot air balloon flights (booked separately).

Sleeping in the Desert

An overnight stay is what differentiates Wadi Rum from a day trip. The night sky here – no light pollution for 50 km in most directions, dry clear air, 360-degree horizon – is the Milky Way at its most accessible for most European and North American visitors. Sunrise from the desert the following morning is worth waking early for.

Basic camps (mattress tents around a fire, simple food) cost around JOD 25-40 per person including dinner and breakfast. Luxury camps (enclosed tents, proper beds, private bathrooms, hot showers) cost USD 150-400 per person per night. Bubble tents with panoramic glass panels for stargazing are a newer addition and popular with good reason. Book directly with camps rather than through third-party agents in Aqaba for better communication and pricing.

Rock Climbing

Wadi Rum’s sandstone walls attract serious international climbers. Routes exist across all grades on multiple formations. Guides with climbing experience are available in Rum village; bring your own gear as equipment rental is limited.

Practical Notes

Summer temperatures reach 40 degrees in the day; the April-June and September-October windows are the practical visiting season. Cold nights are possible in spring and autumn regardless of day temperatures – camps provide blankets but bring a layer. Wear sunscreen and carry more water than you think you need in any season. You will be covered in fine orange dust by the end of a jeep tour. Pack accordingly.