Three Gorges Dam, China

The Three Gorges Dam on the Yangtze River is the largest hydroelectric power station ever built, and the numbers are hard to absorb: 2,335 metres wide, 185 metres tall, with a reservoir stretching nearly 600 kilometres upstream into Chongqing municipality. Construction took 17 years, displaced roughly 1.3 million people, and flooded dozens of towns and hundreds of archaeological sites. It generates around 100 billion kilowatt-hours of electricity per year. Whether this was worth the human and environmental cost is a genuine question that the Chinese government and its critics have argued over for decades; the engineering achievement, regardless of the politics, is extraordinary.

Getting There

The dam site sits near Yichang in Hubei province. Yichang has its own airport with regular flights from Shanghai, Beijing, and Chongqing. High-speed rail connects Yichang to Wuhan in about an hour and to Beijing in around 4.5 hours. From Yichang city, the dam is about 40 kilometres by taxi or bus.

The most atmospheric approach is by cruise ship. Three to five-day Yangtze River cruises operate between Chongqing and Yichang, passing through the three main gorges before reaching the dam. This is the option for most international visitors and gives the experience its proper context: the gorges are genuinely dramatic, with near-vertical limestone cliffs rising several hundred metres from the water. Cruise prices vary enormously from budget Chinese boats at around 1,000-2,000 yuan to premium international lines at several thousand dollars.

The Dam Site

The Three Gorges Dam Scenic Area has organised tourist facilities: observation decks on the hillside above the dam, a dam face viewpoint, and the ship lock area where vessels are raised or lowered through a series of five locks taking about 3-4 hours. Watching a freight vessel navigate the locks is oddly compelling. Entry to the scenic area costs around 105 yuan for adults.

The sheer scale becomes apparent from the hilltop decks. The dam wall is so long that it disappears into haze at each end on misty days. The reservoir side is flat and calm; the downstream gorge is controlled and narrower. A model exhibition explains the construction history in considerable detail, including the process of relocating entire town populations, which is presented as a triumph of national organisation.

Chongqing

Most river cruises begin in Chongqing, and the city deserves a day or two on its own terms. It sits at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers, built across steep hillsides and connected by an intricate system of bridges, tunnels, cable cars, and elevated highways. The old district of Ciqikou preserves a section of traditional Qing Dynasty architecture with teahouses and local snack stalls.

Chongqing’s food is aggressive and distinctive. The local hot pot uses tallow-based broth with Sichuan pepper and dried chillies; it numbs the lips within a few minutes and is addictive. A full hot pot meal for two with drinks runs around 150-250 yuan at a mid-range place. Chongqing noodles (xiaomian) are available at breakfast stalls for 8-12 yuan and are the correct morning meal.

Where to Stay

In Chongqing, the Raffles Chongqing in the Chaotianmen district is the prestige option, occupying the tip of the peninsula with river views on two sides. Mid-range hotels cluster in the Jiefangbei and Guanyinqiao districts at 300-600 yuan per night. For the dam itself, Yichang has a decent selection of business hotels near the train station at 250-400 yuan.

Practical Notes

Foreign visitors to China need a visa arranged in advance. The Golden Week holiday in October brings enormous domestic tourism crowds to all major sites; avoid if possible. The Yangtze valley can be humid and hazy from June to September. October and November typically offer the clearest views. Photography of the dam infrastructure is permitted in designated areas.