The Serengeti, Tanzania

Around 8,000 wildebeest calves are born every day during calving season in the southern Serengeti. For about six weeks from late January through March, the southern plains around Ndutu become the largest nursery on earth: newborns taking their first steps, predators in continuous action, cheetahs running down prey on open grass. It is noisier, bloodier, and more intense than the famous river crossings in August – and considerably less crowded. Most tourists do not know this is happening. Most tourism marketing does not emphasise it. The river crossings are the image; the calving season is arguably the more extraordinary wildlife event.

The Serengeti covers about 14,750 square kilometres in northern Tanzania and contains the world’s largest terrestrial animal migration: roughly 1.5 million wildebeest, 250,000 zebra, and 500,000 Thomson’s gazelle moving continuously in an annual circuit following the rains.

The Migration Calendar

When you go determines what you see more than any other single decision.

December-March (southern Serengeti/Ndutu): Calving season. Predator activity is intense. Fewer visitors and lower lodge prices than the northern season.

April-May: The herds move north through the central corridor. Long rains make roads muddy. Lodges drop prices significantly. Good birding.

June-July: The Grumeti River crossing in the western corridor. Crocodiles, mass drownings, dramatic photography. Expensive.

August-October: The Mara River crossings in the north near the Kenyan border. The most photographed scenes of the migration. Also the most expensive and crowded. Book lodges 12-18 months ahead for good positions during peak crossing season.

Where to Stay

The serious distinction in Serengeti accommodation is positioning, not star rating.

Central Serengeti (Seronera area): Good year-round wildlife because resident predators stay regardless of migration. More vehicles on the road.

Northern Serengeti (Kogatende area): Positioned for the Mara River crossings August-October. Fewer camps, more expensive, better for specific migration photography.

Western Corridor (Grumeti): Accesses the June-July crossings. Private conservancies in this zone operate with much lower visitor density – a genuine difference in experience.

Ndutu and southern Serengeti: Calving season December through March. Seasonal camps close for other periods.

Daily costs range from $350 for budget camping and shared drives to $500-700 for mid-range tented camps to $1,000-1,500 or more for luxury camps. Park fees add approximately $70 per adult per day. A skilled guide is worth more to the experience than a luxury vehicle.

Getting There

Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport or Arusha, then take a light aircraft to Serengeti airstrips (Seronera, Kogatende, Grumeti). Arusha is 7-8 hours by road from the central park; most operators use light aircraft. Book through an established Tanzania safari operator; the logistical coordination is substantial and the expertise matters.

Game Drives

Dawn drives leaving camp at 6am and dusk drives returning after sunset are when predator activity peaks. Hot air balloon safaris (around $600 per person) offer a different perspective at sunrise – the silence and height give context to the scale of the landscape.