The Serengeti

The Serengeti, Tanzania

The Serengeti is where the phrase “African safari” acquires its full weight. Around 1.5 million wildebeest, 250,000 zebra, and 500,000 Thomson’s gazelle move through the ecosystem in a continuous annual circuit, following the rains and the fresh grass they produce. This is the largest terrestrial animal migration on earth, and watching it from a vehicle, even a crowded game drive vehicle in high season, is one of those experiences that overrides expectation.

The park covers about 14,750 sq km in northern Tanzania. The ecosystem extends into Kenya’s Maasai Mara to the north.

The Migration Calendar

This matters more than most general tourism advice acknowledges. What you see depends heavily on when you go.

December-March: Calving season in the southern Serengeti and Ndutu area. Around 8,000 wildebeest calves are born each day at peak. Predator activity is intense. Good for watching lions, cheetahs, and hyenas in action.

April-May: The herds move north through the central corridor. Long rains make roads muddy. Fewer visitors. Some lodges drop prices significantly.

June-July: The Grumeti River crossing in the western corridor. Crocodiles, mass drownings, dramatic photography. Expensive season.

August-October: The Mara River crossings in the north, close to the Kenyan border. The most photographed scenes of the migration. Also the most expensive and crowded. Book 12-18 months ahead for good camp positions.

November: Herds begin moving south again. Transition period; variable conditions.

Where to Stay

Accommodation ranges from budget camping at government campsites to luxury tented camps costing USD 1,500+ per person per night. The serious distinction is positioning.

Central Serengeti (Seronera area) is the most accessible and has good year-round wildlife because resident prides and predators stay here regardless of migration. More lodges and more road traffic.

Northern Serengeti (Kogatende area) is positioned for the Mara River crossings in high season. Fewer camps, more expensive, better for specific migration photography.

Western Corridor (Grumeti) accesses the June-July river crossings. Private conservancies in this zone (like Singita Grumeti) operate with much lower visitor density.

Ndutu and Southern Serengeti works for the calving season. Several good camps in this area operate seasonally.

Game Drives

Dawn drives (leaving camp at 6am) and dusk drives (returning after sunset where permitted) are when predator activity peaks. Midday is largely for lunch. Hot air balloon safaris (around USD 600 per person) offer a different perspective at sunrise.

Eating and Food

Lodge and camp food is almost uniformly competent. Most upscale camps serve three-course meals and sundowner drinks as part of the package. The quality difference between luxury and mid-range is less dramatic than the price difference.

Getting There

Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport or Arusha, then take a light aircraft charter to one of the several airstrips within the Serengeti (Seronera, Kogatende, Grumeti). Arusha is about 7-8 hours by road from the central park; most operators use light aircraft for the transfer.

Booking through an established Tanzania safari operator saves significant logistical hassle and is the standard approach.