The Sahara: What It Actually Takes

The Sahara is not one landscape. It is roughly 9.2 million square kilometres – approximately the size of the United States – stretching across eleven countries, ranging from the stark gravel reg of the Algerian plateau to the soaring orange dunes of Erg Chebbi in Morocco to the hallucinatory salt flats of Tunisia. Most visitors access it from Morocco or Tunisia, which have the best tourism infrastructure and the most straightforward current travel conditions.

Morocco: The Easiest Entry Point

The Moroccan Sahara centres on the town of Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dune field. Erg Chebbi’s dunes run about 14 miles north to south with the highest reaching 500 feet – which sounds abstract until you stand at the base and look up. From Marrakech, the standard itinerary is a full-day drive south via the Tizi n’Tichka mountain pass (2,260 metres), Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate, the Dades Valley, and the Todra Gorge. From Fes, the route passes through the Middle Atlas, cedar forests, and the Ziz Valley. Both are scenically excellent.

The best time to visit is September through April when temperatures are bearable; summer heat is genuinely extreme.

Desert camps around Merzouga range from basic to genuinely luxurious. Standard tents have real beds and shared bathrooms; luxury camps have private en-suite tents and solar electricity. The significant price difference buys privacy more than comfort. For genuine solitude, ask specifically about camps positioned further into the dunes away from the cluster near town.

Camel rides are photogenic. An hour each way is the upper limit before serious lower-back discomfort for most riders. If photographs are the goal, take the ride; if the dune camp is the destination, ask about 4x4 alternatives. Responsible operators limit each camel to one or two trips per week and rest them during peak afternoon heat – asking about this is a reasonable way to gauge the operation.

Tunisia’s Chott el-Djerid

The Chott el-Djerid salt flat in southern Tunisia is one of the more remarkable surfaces on earth. During the dry season the shallow salt lake evaporates completely, leaving a 250-kilometre crust of white and cream. The light effects at sunrise and sunset create hallucinatory mirages visible throughout the day. The town of Tozeur on the northern edge is the practical base, with an airport connecting to Tunis.

Algeria: Worth Knowing About

The Algerian Sahara around Tamanrasset and the Tassili n’Ajjer plateau contains rock art sites dated to approximately 10,000 BCE. Access requires a government-approved guide for all backcountry travel. The political situation has been stable in tourist areas since the early 2000s, but check current travel advisories before booking. The reward for navigating the bureaucracy is a landscape that almost no tourists reach.

Practical Notes

Summer temperatures in the interior regularly exceed 45 degrees Celsius. April-May and October-November are the practical visiting windows. Nights in the desert fall below 10 degrees Celsius even in summer; one warm layer is always necessary. Carry at least 4 litres of water per person per day for desert hiking. Sandstorms develop with minimal warning; your guide will know the signs. Bring local currency in cash.

Tagine is the default across the Moroccan Sahara, and the slow-cooked lamb and date version served in desert regions is genuinely different from its Marrakech equivalent. Mint tea served in three progressively sweeter glasses precedes every conversation; refusing the first glass is considered rude.