St. Alexander Newski Cathedral, Sofia

Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1878, after a war in which Russia provided the decisive military support. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built between 1882 and 1912 as a memorial to the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died in that war. The dedication to a Russian saint reflected genuine gratitude; Bulgaria and Russia had religious and cultural ties through Orthodox Christianity that predated the political alliance. The gold-plated domes are visible from much of Sofia’s centre, and the building holds around 10,000 people, making it one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the world.

Visiting

Entry to the main cathedral is free. The crypt, which holds a collection of medieval Bulgarian icons, charges a small admission of a few lev. The icon collection in the crypt is considered one of the better in Bulgaria and worth the cost.

Go on a weekday morning. Weekend tour groups fill the space in a way that makes the interior difficult to appreciate. Sunday morning services give the cathedral its proper atmosphere but also its largest crowds. Dress with covered shoulders and knees.

Photography is permitted in the main hall except during services. The dome fresco overhead is impressive in scale; the smell of incense is constant.

The Surrounding Area

The weekend antiques and art market in the plaza beside the cathedral sells Soviet-era memorabilia, Bulgarian crafts, icons, and collectibles. It’s the most interesting outdoor market in central Sofia and worth an hour whether or not you buy anything.

St. George Rotunda, a few minutes’ walk toward the Presidency building, is a 4th-century Roman rotunda surviving in a courtyard. One of the oldest buildings in Sofia and free to enter.

Boyana Church, 8 kilometres out from the centre (accessible by taxi or bus), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site from the 13th century with medieval frescoes considered among the finest in Europe. Most visitors skip it entirely because it requires the effort of leaving the centre. This is a mistake.

Eating

Sofia is exceptionally good value for eating out compared to Western European capitals. A sit-down meal at a mid-range restaurant rarely exceeds EUR 15 to 20 per person including drinks. Restaurant Kanālčo near Vitosha Boulevard does traditional Bulgarian dishes at honest prices: meze plates, grilled meats, shopska salad (the national default). The wine is local, cheap, and usually very decent.

Getting Around

The metro is efficient and cheap (around 1.60 BGN per journey). Taxis are affordable but use only official marked cabs or apps like Yandex.Taxi; tourist-facing unofficial taxis at the airport and major sights run inflated rates. Sofia’s centre is compact enough that most attractions are within 30 minutes’ walk of each other.