Split, Croatia

Split is a working port city that happens to contain a Roman palace at its centre. Diocletian built his retirement complex here around 305 AD, and the palace walls have been continuously inhabited ever since. Today roughly 3,000 people live inside those walls, in apartments and houses that incorporate the original Roman stonework into their foundations, cellars, and sometimes their living rooms. It is genuinely unlike any other city in Europe.

Diocletian’s Palace

The palace is not a museum. You walk straight into it from the Riva promenade through one of four gates, and then you are inside: narrow lanes, bars and restaurants in basement cellars, laundry hanging between medieval stonework, cats sleeping in the sun. The Peristyle, the palace’s central ceremonial courtyard, is surrounded by columns and often has a saxophonist or string quartet playing in the evenings.

The Cathedral of Saint Domnius, just off the Peristyle, occupies Diocletian’s mausoleum. The emperor who persecuted Christians has been succeeded by one of the oldest functioning churches in the world. The irony is not lost on locals. Climb the bell tower for a rooftop view over the palace walls: entry costs about 35 kuna.

The basement halls beneath the Peristyle are well-preserved Roman vaulted chambers that now host art exhibitions and craft markets. This is also the best place to understand the original scale of the complex.

The Riva and Beyond

The Riva, the broad waterfront promenade outside the palace’s south wall, is where Split performs its social ritual of the korzo: evening strolling, coffee-drinking, watching the ferries come and go. It sounds mundane described flatly but is hard to leave once you settle into it. Facing the promenade is a row of outdoor cafes that are fine for watching the action; turn a corner into the palace and the prices drop and the atmosphere improves.

Marjan Hill, the pine-forested headland west of the Old Town, is an easy 45-minute walk from the palace. Trails lead up through the pines to summit viewpoints; at 178 metres it is not demanding but the views across the islands are excellent. The small beaches on the south side of Marjan are more pleasant than the main city beaches.

Eating

Croatian cuisine here is Dalmatian: seafood, grilled fish, olive oil, and local wines. Black risotto (crni rizot) made with cuttlefish ink is worth ordering at least once. Pasticada, slow-braised beef in a sweet wine sauce, is the traditional Sunday dish and appears on most restaurant menus.

For honest, affordable food, the Stari Grad area beyond the tourist core has several konobas (family-run taverns) where a full meal with wine runs to about 150-200 kuna per head. Konoba Matejuska near the small Matejuska fishing harbour is the kind of place that deserves to be mentioned while it is still relatively uncrowded.

The Green Market (Pazar) on the east side of the palace walls operates every morning and is the genuine local food market: produce, cheese, dried herbs, and a section of stalls selling ready-made Dalmatian specialities.

Where to Stay

Staying inside the palace walls is the obvious option and there are now many apartments available. Quality varies considerably; read recent reviews carefully. For a reliable hotel, the Vestibul Palace Hotel is positioned directly on the Peristyle and is outstanding for location. Mid-range options cluster in the streets just outside the palace gates. For budget travellers, hostels in Split are generally good quality and the Stari Grad neighbourhood is compact enough that location matters less than in larger cities.

Getting Around

Split is the main ferry hub for central Dalmatia. Catamaran services run to Hvar (30 minutes), Brac (50 minutes), and Vis (2 hours). Day-tripping to Hvar is very popular and the island absolutely deserves it, but it is significantly more expensive than Split. Brac is less visited and the village of Bol with its unusual Zlatni Rat beach is a fine day trip.

When to Go

June and September are the practical sweet spots. July and August are the peak of Croatian summer tourism and Split gets correspondingly crowded and expensive. The shoulder months have warm enough weather for swimming, manageable crowds, and hotel rates that are 30-40% lower.

The Croatian kuna was replaced by the euro in 2023, which simplified budgeting considerably.