Split

Split, Croatia

Split is a working port city that happens to contain a Roman palace at its centre. Diocletian built his retirement complex here around 305 AD, and the palace walls have been continuously inhabited ever since. Today roughly 3,000 people live inside those walls, in apartments and houses that incorporate the original Roman stonework into their foundations, cellars, and sometimes their living rooms. The result is genuinely unlike any other city in Europe: the palace is not a museum you enter, it is a neighbourhood you walk into.

Croatia switched to the euro in 2023, which simplified budgeting for visitors from the eurozone.

Diocletian’s Palace

Walk through one of the four gates from the Riva promenade and you are inside: narrow lanes, bars and restaurants in basement cellars, laundry hanging between medieval stonework, cats sleeping on Roman column bases. The Peristyle, the palace’s central ceremonial courtyard, is surrounded by ancient columns and often has musicians playing in the evenings.

The Cathedral of Saint Domnius occupies Diocletian’s own mausoleum. The emperor who persecuted Christians has been succeeded by one of the oldest functioning churches in the world. Climb the bell tower for a rooftop view over the palace walls; entry costs about EUR 5.

The basement halls beneath the Peristyle are well-preserved Roman vaulted chambers hosting rotating art exhibitions and craft markets. This is also the best place to understand the original scale of the complex.

The Riva and Beyond

The Riva, the broad waterfront promenade outside the palace’s south wall, is where Split performs its evening korzo: strolling, coffee-drinking, watching the ferries come and go. Turn a corner into the palace and the prices drop and the atmosphere improves considerably.

Marjan Hill, the pine-forested headland west of the old town, is an easy 45-minute walk from the palace. Trails lead to summit viewpoints at 178 metres; the views across the islands are excellent. The small beaches on the south side of Marjan are more pleasant than the main city beaches.

Eating

Croatian Dalmatian cooking: seafood, grilled fish, olive oil, and local wines. Black risotto (crni rizot) made with cuttlefish ink is worth ordering at least once. Pasticada, slow-braised beef in a sweet wine sauce with gnocchi, is the traditional Sunday dish.

For honest, affordable food, the Stari Grad area beyond the tourist core has several konobas (family-run taverns) where a full meal with wine runs EUR 20-30 per head. Konoba Matejuska near the small Matejuska fishing harbour is the kind of place that deserves mention while it is still relatively uncrowded.

The Green Market (Pazar) on the east side of the palace walls operates every morning: produce, cheese, dried herbs, and stalls selling ready-made Dalmatian specialities. The place where locals actually shop.

Where to Stay

Staying inside the palace walls is the obvious option; apartments are plentiful but quality varies considerably. Read recent reviews carefully and check for noise levels (the narrow lanes can be loud at night). The Vestibul Palace Hotel is positioned directly on the Peristyle and is exceptional for location. For budget accommodation, Split’s hostels are generally good and the old town is compact enough that location matters less than in larger cities.

Getting Around

Split is the main ferry hub for central Dalmatia. Catamaran services run to Hvar (30 minutes), Brac (50 minutes), and Vis (2 hours). Day-tripping to Hvar is very popular; the island is significantly more expensive than Split, particularly in accommodation and restaurants.

When to Go

June and September are the practical sweet spots: warm enough for swimming, manageable crowds, and hotel rates 30-40% lower than July-August. The peak Croatian summer season in July and August makes Split crowded and expensive. The shoulder months are the better choice for most visitors.