Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

After dark, the exterior of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is illuminated by a lighting system that tracks the lunar calendar. At the full moon the building is bright white; in the days approaching new moon the tone shifts to silver-blue. The system was designed by Pinnacle Lighting Group; on the right night, walking around the reflecting pools in the evening, the effect is extraordinary. Most visitor guides suggest going at dawn. Going at full moon is the better advice.

The Building

Construction of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque ran from 1996 to 2007. The design is deliberately syncretic: Italian marble cladding, German and Moroccan chandeliers, Iranian carpets, Greek columns. The result is a building that argues for Islamic architecture as a continuously absorbing, non-parochial tradition. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who initiated the project and whose tomb is in the mosque grounds, wanted a building that brought together Muslim cultures from across the world.

The main prayer hall holds 7,000 worshippers; the outer courtyard another 30,000. The carpet on the prayer hall floor is 5,627 square metres, hand-woven in Iran by over 1,200 workers over two years. The central chandelier is 10 metres across and 15 metres tall, set with Swarovski crystals.

Visiting

Entry costs AED 10 for visitors from outside the UAE. Opening hours: 9am to 8:30pm Saturday through Thursday, and 9am to 11:30am and 2:30pm to 8:30pm on Fridays. The mosque closes to non-worshippers during the five daily prayers; closures last 30 to 45 minutes.

Free guided tours run daily from the main entrance; arrive about 15 minutes early. The guides are knowledgeable and the tours are one of the better ways to understand the design intentions.

Women need loose clothing to the ankles, sleeves to the wrists and hair fully covered; the mosque no longer lends abayas, but one can be bought at Souq Al Jami next door. Men should cover their legs and avoid sleeveless tops. Photography is permitted outside prayer times.

The mosque is on Airport Road in the Al Maqtaa area, about 10 kilometres from central Abu Dhabi. Taxis from the Corniche cost around 25 to 35 AED.

Around Abu Dhabi

The Louvre Abu Dhabi on Saadiyat Island, designed by Jean Nouvel, opened in 2017. The perforated dome creates dappled light patterns inside that shift through the day. Entry is AED 70. The collection is good for a museum this young; the architecture justifies visiting regardless. Abu Dhabi to Dubai by motorway is 140 kilometres, about 90 minutes; buses from Dubai’s Union Square run every 30 minutes for around 25 AED.