Santorini, Greece

Santorini is built on the caldera rim of a collapsed volcanic cone, and the setting is genuinely spectacular: white-washed buildings stacked on dark cliffs dropping to the deep blue of the submerged caldera, with the active volcanic islands visible in the water below. The photographs you’ve seen are accurate. The crowds in July and August – over 3 million visitors annually for an island of 15,000 residents, with the port managing up to 8,000 cruise passengers per day – are also accurate, though less often photographed.

The honest advice: Santorini in high summer is expensive, crowded, and hot. The sunset at Oia (the perennially photographed view) involves hundreds of people jostling for position along the caldera wall by 6pm. None of this makes the island not worth visiting. It does mean that late September through October or April through May transforms the experience considerably: full access to everything, warm water, manageable crowds, and prices substantially lower than August.

Where to Stay

Oia is the postcard village on the northern caldera rim. Cave houses carved into the cliffside, most with private pools, are the accommodation format. Prices are substantial and the most in-demand properties book a year ahead.

Fira, the island’s capital, is larger and more practical. Better selection of restaurants and shops, easier transport connections, and caldera views nearly as good as Oia. Prices are lower.

Imerovigli sits between the two on the rim and is quieter than both. The views from the Skaros Rock promontory are arguably the best on the island, and the village sees fewer day-trippers.

What to Do

Akrotiri is the archaeological site most visitors skip in favour of more photographs of the caldera. That’s a mistake. The Minoan settlement buried under volcanic ash around 1600 BCE is remarkably preserved: intact multi-storey buildings, frescoes (now in Athens), and visible street plans. The corrugated metal roof structure protecting the ruins looks industrial. Go anyway.

Winery visits are worth scheduling. Santorini’s volcanic soil produces distinctive wines, particularly Assyrtiko – both a dry white and a sweet vin santo version. Domaine Sigalas and Gavalas are both well-regarded and run tastings.

Perissa and Kamari beaches on the eastern coast have black volcanic sand. They’re not beautiful by conventional standards but they’re functional, with beach bars and water sports. The red beach near Akrotiri is more dramatic visually but the access path is rough.

Volcano boat trip: a 3-4 hour excursion from Fira or Oia’s old port takes you to the active Nea Kameni crater (short summit hike), the hot springs at Palea Kameni, and the caldera view from the water. Book the day before.

Eating

Metaxi Mas in Exo Gonia (inland, not on the caldera) is consistently cited as the best restaurant on the island. The setting is simpler than caldera-view competitors; the food is better. Book ahead.

1800 in Oia delivers on both views and food quality, at prices that reflect the location.

For cheaper eating, the inland villages – Megalochori, Pyrgos – have local tavernas at half the caldera-facing prices. The trade-off (no sunset view) is worth making for several meals.

Getting Around

A scooter is the most practical option. The main road runs the caldera rim and connects most villages. ATV hire is also widely available. Buses run between main villages but are slow and crowded. Arriving by ferry requires a cable car or donkey ride up to Fira from the old port, or a shuttle bus from the main Athinios port further around the island.