Samarkand and Bukhara Uzbekistan

Samarkand and Bukhara, Uzbekistan

Central Asia doesn’t get the visitors it deserves, and Uzbekistan’s two great Silk Road cities are still significantly quieter than their equivalent monuments in Europe or the Middle East. That won’t last. Go now, while you can walk around Registan Square without fighting through selfie sticks.

Samarkand

The Sites

Registan Square is genuinely one of the most impressive architectural ensembles in the world. Three madrasahs from the 15th-17th centuries enclose the square on three sides, their tiled facades more vivid in person than any photograph suggests. The Tilya-Kori Madrasah has a gold-encrusted interior that borders on overwhelming. Plan at least two hours, longer if you want to explore the interior galleries.

Gur-Emir Mausoleum holds the tomb of Timur (Tamerlane) and is about a 10-minute walk from Registan. The ribbed blue dome is immediately recognisable. Smaller than Registan but worth 40 minutes.

Shah-i-Zinda is the most atmospheric stop in the city: a narrow lane of tiled mausoleums dating from the 14th century, used as a royal and noble necropolis for centuries. Late afternoon light on the tilework is exceptional.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque is partly reconstructed but gives a good sense of scale. Timur intended it to be the largest mosque in the world. He slightly overestimated what his architects could achieve.

Eating in Samarkand

Kamol Knab does solid plov (the Uzbek rice dish with lamb, carrots, and chickpeas) and excellent samsa pastries. Portions are large. Lunch for two comes to around 60,000-80,000 UZS.

Tamara Restaurant is the better option for a sit-down dinner with table service and a more varied menu.

Staying in Samarkand

Hotel Samarkand is well-positioned near Registan and perfectly comfortable. Karavan Serai is a boutique option inside a converted madrasah, which sounds gimmicky but works well.

Bukhara

Bukhara feels older and quieter than Samarkand, its Old City largely preserved inside a compact area you can cross on foot in 20 minutes.

The Sites

Kalon Minaret has stood since 1127 and dominates the skyline. The Kalon Mosque beside it and the Mir-i Arab Madrasah across the square form the Poi-Kalyan Ensemble, the heart of the Old City.

Chor-Minor is a quirky outlier: four small minarets on a single building, each slightly different, built in the early 19th century. It’s photogenic and easy to visit en route to the bazaar area.

Ark Citadel is the ancient royal fortress on the north side of the Old City. The view from the walls over the city is worth the modest entrance fee alone.

The trading domes around the central area (Toki-Sarrafon, Toki-Zargaron) are still functioning bazaars selling silk, ceramics, and handicrafts. Prices are negotiable.

Eating in Bukhara

Sabzgil is a family-run spot known for plov and melon dishes. Very local.

Madrasah i’mom Bukhari serves good Uzbek food with courtyard seating inside an actual historic building. The atmosphere justifies a slightly higher price.

Staying in Bukhara

Malaka Kamokhostari guesthouse puts you in the heart of the Old City. Hotel Bukhara is the more comfortable, more expensive option.

Practical Notes

The Uzbek Som fluctuates; as of recent years, around 12,000 UZS to the USD. Having some cash helps at smaller restaurants and in bazaars. Most hotels accept cards but the connection can be unreliable.

Dress modestly at religious sites. Knees and shoulders covered. They’re fairly relaxed about tourists but it’s respectful.

English is limited outside hotels. A Google Translate download (Uzbek language pack) is more useful than any phrasebook. Russian gets you further than English in most shops.

Samarkand to Bukhara runs on a fast train (Afrosiyob) in under 90 minutes. Book ahead, especially for weekend departures.