Reykjavik: The World’s Northernmost Capital, and Currently Living Next to an Active Volcano

Since December 2023, the Reykjanes Peninsula south of Reykjavik has been in a sustained period of volcanic eruptions near the town of Grindavik. By 2026 this has become part of the landscape for visitors as much as the northern lights or the geysers – something specific to this moment in Iceland’s geological history, with fresh lava flows accessible at regulated viewpoints and the Blue Lagoon (which closed and reopened multiple times during eruption events) operating again as of 2025. Check vedur.is for current Civil Protection advisories before approaching any active area; conditions change without much warning.

Reykjavik itself is a compact, walkable city of around 140,000 people – improbably small for a national capital and one that punches significantly above its weight in food, design, and geothermal spa culture. Two days covers the city; it also functions as the gateway for the rest of Iceland’s extraordinary landscapes.

The City

Hallgrímskirkja Church is the city’s signature landmark: a 74.5-metre Lutheran church inspired by the columnar basalt formations visible throughout Iceland. The lift to the tower gives the best panoramic view of the city. Free to enter; tower lift costs a few hundred kronur.

Harpa Concert Hall at the harbour has a geometric glass facade designed in collaboration with Olafur Eliasson, responding to light differently at different times of day. The programming ranges from Iceland Symphony to pop. Evening concerts are worth building around if the schedule aligns.

The Settlement Exhibition downtown is built around a 10th-century Viking longhouse uncovered during construction in 2001, displayed in situ beneath a glass floor. One of the more unusual archaeological museum experiences in Europe.

Eating

Dill is Iceland’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, serving modern Nordic-Icelandic tasting menus with ingredients from around the island.

Matur og Drykkur at the Old Harbour does reinterpreted traditional Icelandic cooking – salted fish, skyr, lamb – at more accessible prices and in a setting that feels like it has been there longer than it has.

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is the hot dog stand that has been at the same harbour location since 1937. Order ein með öllu (one with everything): mustard, ketchup, sweet browned onions, raw onions, remoulade. Bill Clinton ate here in 2004.

Fermented shark (hákarl), available at Café Loki opposite Hallgrímskirkja, is genuinely what the descriptions promise: powerfully ammoniac. Try it once; forming an opinion you can express from personal experience is worth the 30 seconds.

The Golden Circle

The essential day trip: Þingvellir National Park (UNESCO site where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are visibly splitting apart at 2 cm per year, and where the world’s first parliament met from 930 CE), Geysir/Strokkur (where Strokkur erupts reliably every 6 to 10 minutes), and Gullfoss waterfall. Allow six to eight hours. Self-driving gives more flexibility; guided tours are efficient.

Northern Lights

Visible from roughly September through April on clear, dark nights away from city light. Moonless nights are the best conditions. Several tour operators run aurora excursions and re-book you free if the sky is overcast; this policy is worth checking when booking.

Practical Notes

Iceland is essentially cashless; your card works everywhere. The tap water is excellent and cold; bottled water is redundant. Pack waterproof outer layers regardless of season – the weather changes fast. The Flybus from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik is significantly cheaper than a taxi and runs to a reliable schedule.