Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest

Whakarewarewa Forest: Giant Californian Redwoods in the Middle of New Zealand

The redwoods at Whakarewarewa were planted in 1901 as a forestry trial by the government of the day. The experiment was to see which imported species would grow fastest for timber use. The Californian coast redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) are now over 70 metres tall, and the forest around them is one of the best mountain biking trail networks in the Southern Hemisphere. The timber angle never really worked out, but what grew up instead is worth the trip from wherever you are staying in Rotorua.

Getting There

The forest entrance is at 501 Long Mile Road, about 3km from Rotorua town centre. It is walkable if you are fit and do not mind a roadside stretch, but most people drive or take a short taxi. The car park is free. The forest itself is open 24 hours, though the Treewalk and visitor centre have set hours.

The Treewalk

The Redwoods Treewalk is the headline attraction: a sequence of suspended bridges and platforms woven through the upper canopy at heights of up to 12 metres, with the redwood trunks rising another 60 metres above you. It takes around an hour at a relaxed pace. Daytime entry costs NZD 38 for adults; the night walk (which adds illuminated lanterns designed by David Trubridge hung at different levels through the canopy) runs from dusk and costs NZD 49. The night walk is the better experience if you are not afraid of heights in the dark.

Book ahead in summer (December to February) as the Treewalk sells out most evenings.

Mountain Biking

Whakarewarewa has around 130km of marked trails across all skill levels. The easier green and blue trails are suitable for recreational riders; the black-grade tracks involve drops, jumps, and technical roots. Rotorua Mountain Bike Centre at the forest entrance rents full-suspension bikes from around NZD 70 per half day and offers guided rides for beginners. If you have not ridden forest singletrack before, the guided option is worth it for the first hour.

The forest floor is volcanic pumice soil, which drains exceptionally well. The trails ride well even in wet weather, which is different from most muddy forest systems.

Walking Trails

For walkers, the Pohaturoa Track is a 1.5km loop through the heart of the redwood grove. It takes around thirty minutes and is easy, good for families. The long trunks with their fissured red-brown bark and the high canopy filtering the light make it feel genuinely different from the surrounding New Zealand bush.

The Green Lake Loop connects the forest to a viewpoint above Rotorua, around 8km return, and passes through mixed indigenous and exotic forest. Worth doing on a clear morning.

Whakarewarewa Living Maori Village

This is the other Whakarewarewa, separate from the forest and a ten-minute walk away. The Te Puia cultural centre (on the same site as the Pohutu geyser) and the Whakarewarewa Living Village are two different entities, both worth understanding before you arrive. The Living Village is still an operating village where Maori people live and work. Guided tours (around NZD 35) include hangi food preparation, carving demonstrations, and a waka performance. The geothermal vents throughout the village, including boiling pools and fumaroles within metres of houses, are a reminder that Rotorua’s thermal activity is not confined to designated tourist parks.

Polynesian Spa

The Polynesian Spa sits on the lake shore in Rotorua proper and has been operating in some form since 1882. The outdoor Priest Pool (the original alkaline spring) is the most atmospheric - the pool temperature is around 36 to 40 degrees depending on section, with a direct view over Lake Rotorua. Private pool packages are available for couples or families. Entry to the public pools starts at NZD 32 for adults. Arrive early; by 11am in peak season the public area gets genuinely crowded.

Where to Eat

Atticus Finch on Hinemoa Street is the best cafe in town for breakfast, with good coffee and a menu that uses local ingredients seriously. It gets busy on weekends but rarely has a long wait.

Abracadabra Cafe Bar has an eclectic menu that includes Moroccan and Middle Eastern dishes alongside New Zealand classics. The relaxed atmosphere makes it a good evening choice if you want something other than a pub.

For a hangi meal, Te Puia’s restaurant offers a guided hangi experience at certain times; it is touristy but the food is genuine and reasonably good.

Where to Stay

Rotorua Central Backpackers is clean, central, and well-run - one of the better budget options in a town that has a lot of average ones. Dorm beds from NZD 28.

Rydges Rotorua is the reliable mid-range hotel option in town, around NZD 150 per night, with an indoor pool and good breakfast.

For something different, several of the farms and lodges east of town toward Lake Tarawera offer accommodation in quieter surroundings, fifteen minutes from the city centre.

Practical Tips

  • Sandflies exist in the forest and can be aggressive near water. Insect repellent with DEET is more effective than the natural alternatives.
  • The forest entrance has a bike wash station at the car park; use it before loading bikes onto a car rack.
  • The sulphur smell from Rotorua’s geothermal activity is pervasive and does not disappear once you leave the geyser areas. You either stop noticing it after a few hours or you never stop noticing it.
  • Rotorua is about 230km from Auckland (roughly 2.5 hours driving) on Highway 1 south, then Highway 5 east. The drive through the central plateau is straightforward and not scenic enough to demand a stop.

The forest is best in early morning before the day-trippers arrive from Rotorua and Auckland. By 9am on any school holiday weekday the Treewalk area is filling up. Go at 8am and you might have the redwood canopy largely to yourself.