Prague
Exploring Enchanting Prague: A Comprehensive Guide for Tourists
Prague is the capital of the Czech Republic and one of the few major European cities to survive both World Wars almost entirely intact. The result is a thousand-year-old cityscape of Romanesque foundations, Gothic spires, Baroque facades, Art Nouveau frontispieces, and Cubist experiments stacked on top of one another along the banks of the Vltava River. The city has been a capital of the Holy Roman Empire under Charles IV, a cradle of the Protestant Reformation under Jan Hus, a centre of Jewish culture before the Holocaust, a Communist satellite after 1948, and the site of the Velvet Revolution in 1989. Every era has left its mark, and together they make Prague one of the richest short-trip destinations in Europe.
This guide covers what to see, where to eat, where to sleep, and the practical details that make a first visit run smoothly.
Orientation
Historic Prague divides into five quarters on either side of the Vltava:
- Staré Město (Old Town): The medieval heart, centered on the Old Town Square.
- Josefov (Jewish Quarter): Absorbed within the Old Town, with synagogues and the old Jewish cemetery.
- Nové Město (New Town): Founded by Charles IV in 1348 and anchored by Wenceslas Square.
- Malá Strana (Lesser Town): The Baroque quarter below the castle, the most atmospheric neighborhood.
- Hradčany: The castle district, with Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral.
The Vltava is crossed by several bridges, of which the pedestrian Charles Bridge is the most famous. Trams, a clean metro system, and easy walkability make the city simple to navigate.
Sightseeing in Prague
1. Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)
The largest ancient castle complex in the world by area, dating from the 9th century. Within its walls sit St Vitus Cathedral (a Gothic masterpiece with striking stained glass including a window by Alphonse Mucha), the Old Royal Palace (the Vladislav Hall, with its fantastic rib-vaulted ceiling, where Czech presidents are inaugurated), St George’s Basilica (Romanesque, with the tomb of Saint Ludmila), and Golden Lane (a row of tiny 16th-century cottages, one of which Franz Kafka occupied). Allow at least half a day. The Changing of the Guard happens daily at noon.
2. Charles Bridge (Karlův most)
A stone Gothic bridge completed in 1402 at the behest of Charles IV, lined with 30 Baroque statues added in the 17th and 18th centuries. Walking it at dawn, before the crowds arrive, is one of the great experiences of European travel.
3. Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí)
The civic heart of Prague for eight centuries. The medieval Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall (1410), one of the oldest working astronomical clocks in the world, performs the hourly “Walk of the Apostles.” The twin-spired Church of Our Lady before Týn dominates the square, and the Baroque St Nicholas Church anchors the opposite corner. Climb the Old Town Hall Tower for the classic aerial view of the square.
4. Jewish Quarter (Josefov)
Once Europe’s most important Jewish community, largely destroyed in the Holocaust though the buildings were spared because the Nazis intended to preserve them as a “museum of an extinct race.” The Old-New Synagogue (1270), the Pinkas Synagogue (with walls inscribed with the names of 80,000 Czech Holocaust victims), the Klausen Synagogue, and the deeply moving Old Jewish Cemetery are essential. A combination ticket covers most sites.
5. Malá Strana (Lesser Town)
The Baroque quarter on the castle side of the Vltava. The Church of St Nicholas is one of the most important Baroque churches north of the Alps. Kampa Island, the riverside quarter with the Lennon Wall and the Kampa Park, is tranquil and atmospheric.
6. Petřín Hill
A 327-metre forested hill above Malá Strana, with a miniature Eiffel Tower (the Petřín Lookout Tower), a mirror maze, and a funicular railway.
7. Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí)
The grand boulevard of Nové Město, scene of the 1968 Soviet invasion protests and the 1989 Velvet Revolution. The National Museum at the top and the statue of Saint Wenceslas are the landmarks.
8. Art Nouveau Prague
The Municipal House (Obecní dům) (1912), the Mucha Museum, Grand Hotel Europa on Wenceslas Square, and the Main Station (Hlavní nádraží) are all superb Art Nouveau buildings. Don’t miss Cubist architecture either, unique to Prague: the House of the Black Madonna and the houses around Libušina Street in Vyšehrad.
9. Vyšehrad
A second castle complex on a rocky bluff south of the centre, with the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul, the Vyšehrad Cemetery (where Dvořák and Smetana are buried), and quieter views back over the river.
Dining in Prague
Traditional Czech cooking is hearty: roast pork, dumplings, and cabbage; beef goulash; and smoked meats, all washed down with world-class Pilsner lagers.
- Lokál Dlouhá (and its sister Lokál branches): Traditional Czech food done well, excellent tank-fresh Pilsner Urquell.
- U Modré Kachničky: Long-established Czech restaurant specializing in duck (the name translates to “At the Blue Duckling”).
- U Fleků: A brewery operating since 1499, serving its own dark lager (tmavé pivo) and traditional food in a beer-hall setting.
- Café Savoy: A lavishly restored coffeehouse serving breakfast, light meals, and classic Czech dishes. Book ahead.
- Café Imperial and Café Louvre: Two more classic coffeehouses worth visiting for the atmosphere.
- Eska: Michelin-recognized modern Czech cuisine in the Karlín district, built in a renovated factory.
- Field: One Michelin star, refined modern Czech cuisine; one of Prague’s top fine-dining rooms.
- Sansho and Kro Kitchen: For travelers hungry for something beyond Czech staples.
- Trdelník: A spit-roasted cinnamon-sugar pastry sold everywhere in the tourist zones. Often marketed as “traditional Czech,” it is in fact Slovak-Hungarian and relatively recent in Prague, but it is a tasty enough snack.
Accommodations in Prague
- Four Seasons Hotel Prague: Riverside luxury in three heritage buildings.
- Aria Hotel Prague: A music-themed boutique five-star in Malá Strana.
- Hotel Kings Court Prague MGallery by Sofitel: Central, near the Powder Gate.
- Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa: Extravagantly Baroque-styled boutique in Malá Strana.
- Augustine Prague (Marriott Luxury Collection): Inside a working monastery in Malá Strana.
- Emblem Hotel: Designed modern boutique in the Old Town.
- Mosaic House and Hotel Salvator: Good mid-range picks.
- Sir Toby’s Hostel and Hostel One Home: Well-reviewed budget options.
Neighborhood choice
- Old Town / Josefov: Best for first-time visitors but noisy and touristy.
- Malá Strana: Quieter, more atmospheric, walkable to the castle.
- Vinohrady and Karlín: Residential districts with excellent cafes and restaurants, cheaper accommodation, metro access to the sights.
- Žižkov: Slightly grittier, bar-heavy, good value.
Activities in Prague
- Classical concerts: Prague was the city where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni. Concerts at the Estates Theatre, Rudolfinum, Municipal House, and inside various churches are widely accessible.
- National Theatre: Opera, ballet, and drama in a 19th-century landmark on the Vltava.
- River cruise: Hour-long Vltava cruises under Charles Bridge offer fresh perspectives.
- Beer spa experience: A casual Prague novelty, a warm beer-based bath with a cold pint on hand.
- Mozart Museum (Bertramka) and Mucha Museum: Smaller specialist museums worth a half-day between major sights.
- Day trips: Kutná Hora (1 hour east, with the Sedlec Ossuary of human bones and the cathedral of Saint Barbara), Karlovy Vary (2 hours west, Bohemia’s famous spa town), Český Krumlov (3 hours south, a UNESCO-listed medieval town; ideally overnight).
- Prague Zoo: One of Europe’s top-rated zoos, in Troja north of the centre.
Tips for Your Trip
- Walkability: The historic centre is small and almost entirely walkable. The clean, cheap metro, tram, and bus system (single ticket around 30 CZK) is reliable for longer distances.
- Currency: Czech koruna (CZK). Many tourist venues display prices in euros but pay in crowns for better rates. Cards are widely accepted.
- Currency-exchange scams: Avoid street exchange kiosks in tourist zones, some of which advertise misleading rates. Use bank ATMs or reputable chains like Exchange s.r.o.
- Tipping: Rounding up or 10% for good service. Service is not usually included on the bill.
- Over-tourism: The centre is extremely crowded between May and September. Early mornings (before 9am) and late evenings (after 7pm) are the best times to walk Charles Bridge and the Castle district.
- Beer: Czechs drink more beer per capita than any other nation. Try Pilsner Urquell, Budvar, Staropramen, and dark lagers like Kozel Černý. “Tankové pivo” (tank beer) is unpasteurized and fresh.
- Dress for weather: Prague winters are cold (often below 0°C) and damp; summers are warm but not hot. Spring and autumn are ideal.
- Photography: The Prague Castle and Charles Bridge viewed from Letná Park at sunset is the classic panoramic shot.
Prague rewards travelers who walk slowly, look upward at the architectural detail, pause in Baroque churches even without a guidebook, and make time for one concert and one long coffee-house afternoon. Few cities this ancient have survived so much and still feel so alive.