Pol-e Khaju: Isfahan’s Most Useful Bridge

Pol-e Khaju was built around 1650 under Shah Abbas II. It crosses the Zayandeh River in central Isfahan, connecting the Armenian quarter of New Julfa on the southern bank with the rest of the city. It’s 133 metres long and 12 metres wide, with 24 arches on the upper deck and a lower gallery of tea rooms built into the piers. The hydraulic system beneath it includes sluice gates that were used to control the river level and create reflecting pools upstream.

On a warm evening, half of Isfahan is here. Families sit on the lower gallery steps, students study, older men smoke. It functions as a park as much as a crossing. The Si-o-Seh Pol (Bridge of 33 Arches) is about 2 km upstream and gets more tourist attention, but Pol-e Khaju is more interesting architecturally and more socially alive.

What Else to See in Isfahan

Naqsh-e Jahan Square (Imam Square) is the second largest plaza in the world after Tiananmen. The Royal Mosque (Masjed-e Shah) on its south side has tilework in deep blue and turquoise that took 27 years to complete after the mosque itself was finished. Entry is around 500,000 IRR for foreigners (prices shift with the exchange rate; check current figures).

Chehel Sotun Palace, a short walk from the square, has 20 columns that reflect in the pool to create the illusion of 40. The interior frescoes depict Safavid royal court scenes and battles. Entry is free with a general Isfahan ticket.

The Jame Mosque (Masjed-e Jame) is a different building entirely and frequently confused with the Royal Mosque. It’s older (construction began in the 8th century) and more architecturally layered, showing styles from a thousand years of building and rebuilding. Less polished, more interesting to anyone who cares about the layers.

Eating

Bastani’s on Chahar Bagh Abbas Boulevard does saffron ice cream sandwiched in a crispy wafer, for around 80,000 IRR. Azadegan Tea House on the ground floor of the Grand Bazaar is an actual functioning tea house where men play backgammon; a glass of tea runs about 20,000 IRR.

Getting There

Isfahan has its own airport with domestic flights from Tehran (around 1 hour). The VIP bus from Tehran’s South Terminal takes about 5 hours and is comfortable.