Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara sits at 827 metres elevation in western Nepal, roughly 200 kilometres west of Kathmandu. The Annapurna massif rises directly above the city to the north, and on a clear morning Machhapuchhare (Fishtail Mountain) and Annapurna South reflect in Phewa Lake in the kind of scene that looks like it has been heavily filtered even when you are standing in it. It has not.

The city has two distinct faces. Lakeside (Baidam) is the tourist hub: guesthouses, trekking agencies, restaurants with rooftop views, gear shops. Old Pokhara a few kilometres north has the Gurkha Museum, the old bazaar around Bagar, and a more functional local character. Most visitors spend most of their time in Lakeside, which is fine, but the old town is worth at least a morning.

What to Do

Phewa Lake: Rent a wooden rowboat (NPR 500-700 per hour) and row across to the Barahi Temple on its island. The temple is active and interesting; remove your shoes before entering.

Sarangkot: The hill overlooking the city to the northwest is the standard sunrise viewpoint. Drive or hike up (45 minutes to an hour, taxis NPR 800-1,000 return). On a clear morning the views are exceptional. On a cloudy morning they are not. Check the forecast before committing to a 4:30am start.

Paragliding: Pokhara has built a genuine reputation for this. The launch above Sarangkot offers a 30-minute tandem flight over the lake and city for around $80-100 USD. Blue Sky Paragliding and Sunrise Paragliding are established operators.

Trekking and Permits

Pokhara is the primary staging point for Annapurna trekking. The ACAP permit (Annapurna Conservation Area) is mandatory and costs NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals; get it at the ACAP office in Lakeside. Note that TIMS is no longer enforced on Annapurna trails as of recent updates.

Important 2026 regulation: Solo trekking is now banned throughout Nepal – you must trek with a licensed guide. Your travel insurance must cover emergency helicopter evacuation to high altitude and altitude-related medical treatment; this is actively verified at permit checkpoints.

For Poon Hill circuit (4-5 days): high-altitude views without extensive preparation required. For Annapurna Base Camp (7-10 days, 4,130 metres): the final approach below the south face of Annapurna I is worth every step. The Annapurna Circuit takes 12-20 days.

Eating

Dal bhat (lentil soup over rice with curries and unlimited refills) is the standard and correct order: NPR 350-500 at most places. Momos (dumplings, steamed or fried) at NPR 150-250. Caffe Concerto on Lakeside Road has good espresso by Nepali standards. The dhabas (roadside eateries) in the old bazaar area serve genuinely cheap Nepali food at NPR 150-200 per plate.

Where to Stay

Lakeside has dozens of guesthouses at every price point. Budget rooms: NPR 800-1,500 per night. Mid-range: NPR 3,000-6,000 for mountain views and reliable hot water. Temple Tree Resort and Fish Tail Lodge are the premium lakeside options at $100-200 per night.

Getting There

Kathmandu to Pokhara: 25 minutes by domestic flight (Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines, around $80-120) or 6-8 hours by tourist bus ($10-15). Cash is essential – ATMs in Lakeside run out frequently on busy weekends.