Plaza Mayor

The restaurants lining Plaza Mayor itself are, almost without exception, tourist traps. The square is spectacular; the food served around its perimeter is overpriced and mediocre. Knowing this before you arrive lets you appreciate the architecture without eating a bad lunch in the middle of it.

The Square

Plaza Mayor was completed in 1619 under Philip III, who commissioned architect Juan Gómez de Mora to design the uniform rectangular enclosure. The project took two years. What you are looking at is largely the result of a post-fire reconstruction in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva (the same architect who designed the Prado Museum), after a third major fire destroyed much of the original structure. The square has burned down three times in its history: 1631, 1670, and 1790.

The equestrian bronze statue of Philip III at the centre was cast in 1616 by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca before the square existed in its final form. It lived elsewhere in Madrid for 250 years before being moved to its current position. The statue now stands in a square that was completed three years after the statue was made.

The 237 balconies overlooking the square are privately owned apartments. The frescoed facade of the Casa de la Panadería (former royal bakery) on the north side is the most photographed element; the current fresco scheme dates from 1992 and depicts allegorical figures over a deep blue background. The original building on this site burned down twice. The Casa de la Carnicería (former butchers’ guild) on the south side is now a government office.

Ten archways and nine gates give access to the square. The Arco de Cuchilleros on the southwestern corner is the best exit point for what comes next.

What Happened Here

The square’s history spans centuries of contradictions. Bullfights, public executions (including autos-da-fé during the Inquisition), royal canonizations, and Madrid’s earliest market days all happened in this same rectangular space. Philip IV was acclaimed king here in 1621. Beatifications of figures later declared saints took place here. The same tiles underfoot.

Where to Eat (Not on the Square)

Calle de la Cava Baja, running south of the plaza through the La Latina neighbourhood, is the spine of old Madrid’s bar culture. Casa Lucio on this street has been serving huevos estrellados (fried eggs with chips, a deceptively simple and very good Madrid dish) since 1974 and has attracted enough famous visitors that photographs of them paper the walls.

Casa Revuelta, on Calle de Latoneros just off the Arco de Cuchilleros, is a small, crowded, authentic bar with one speciality: battered bacalao (salt cod) served on small plates at the counter. Go between 12:30 and 14:00 when it is at its best.

Bar Postas, between the plaza and Puerta del Sol on Calle de Postas, is widely regarded as one of the best places in Madrid for the bocadillo de calamares (fried squid sandwich), a specifically Madrileño thing that visitors from outside Spain are usually surprised to like.

Mesón del Champiñón on Cava de San Miguel serves one thing almost exclusively: grilled mushrooms stuffed with garlic, parsley, and chorizo. It has been doing so since 1964. The combination of very cheap cover, a glass of house wine, and a plate of mushrooms is the correct order.

Mercado de San Miguel, adjacent to the northwest corner of the plaza, is beautiful and expensive. It was restored in 2009 and functions as a high-end gourmet tapas hall. Locals largely do not use it. Go for the architecture and one or two items, not as a substitute for a meal in a proper bar. The best items there are the croquetas and the vermouth on tap with olives.

The Surrounding Area

The Puerta del Sol (700 metres northeast of Plaza Mayor, a five-minute walk) is the geographic centre of Spain, marked by a brass plaque in the pavement used as the origin point for the Spanish road numbering system. The clock on the Real Casa de Correos here is where Spain watches the twelve grapes at midnight on New Year’s Eve, a custom that requires eating one grape per bell stroke.

The Royal Palace of Madrid is 900 metres northwest of Plaza Mayor. With 3,418 rooms it is the largest royal palace in Western Europe by floor area. The State Rooms and Royal Armoury are the most interesting sections. Check current opening hours before visiting, as closing for official state events is common.

El Rastro, Madrid’s enormous outdoor flea market, runs every Sunday morning from roughly 09:00 to 15:00 in the La Latina neighbourhood south of the plaza. It is large, chaotic, and genuine: antiques, vintage clothing, tools, ceramics, and a substantial amount of junk, mixed together across several streets. Take valuables out of back pockets.

Logistics

Plaza Mayor is in Madrid’s Barrio de Los Austrias (Habsburg Quarter), accessible via the Metro stop Sol (lines 1, 2, 3) or Ópera (lines 2, 5). Entry is free and continuous; the square has no opening or closing time.

The Sunday stamp and coin collectors’ market in the square runs from roughly 09:00 to 14:00 and is small but has genuine collectors rather than tourists selling to tourists. The Christmas market in December transforms the square almost beyond recognition and is worth the seasonal crowds.

The tourist information office located under the arches of the Casa de la Panadería distributes free maps and can advise on current show schedules at the nearby Teatro Real.

Madrid runs on a time schedule that disorients Northern European visitors. Lunch is between 14:00 and 16:00; dinner rarely starts before 21:00 and restaurants are genuinely empty before 21:30. The kitchen of a proper Madrid restaurant at 19:00 is still cold. Plan accordingly rather than fighting it.