Peter Luger Steakhouse in Brooklyn New York

The New York Times stripped Peter Luger of its Michelin star in 2019, citing inconsistent service and overpriced mediocrity. The restaurant continued doing exactly the same business without apparent concern, and the reservations are as difficult to obtain as they have ever been. This is either evidence that the critics are wrong or evidence that the reputation of a restaurant that has been operating since 1887 is essentially immune to critical opinion. The steak is probably not the greatest porterhouse in New York anymore. It is still very good.

The Single Product

Peter Luger is built around one thing: USDA Prime dry-aged porterhouse steak, personally selected by the owner from the meatpacking district and aged on-site. The cooking is simple: broiled at very high heat, finished in butter, served sizzling on a preheated metal plate at the table. The porterhouse is served for two, three, or four people; single-person steaks are not available. You either bring people or you share.

Logistics

The restaurant does not accept credit cards. Cash or a Peter Luger-issued credit card only. The price for a porterhouse for two is currently around USD 120, before drinks, appetisers, and service.

Reservations are obtained by calling at specific times; OpenTable is not used. Showing up without a reservation and asking for a bar seat works sometimes on weekday evenings.

What to Order

Order the porterhouse. If you’re going for lunch on a weekday, the Luger Burger uses ground beef from the steak trimmings and is one of the better restaurant burgers in the city at significantly lower cost than dinner prices. The sliced tomatoes with Luger steak sauce (tomato and horseradish, also sold bottled) are the right starter. German fried potatoes and thick-cut bacon are the sides. German chocolate cake with schlag (dense whipped cream) for dessert.

Williamsburg

The restaurant is at 178 Broadway, at the northern edge of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The L train to Bedford Avenue is 15 minutes’ walk; the walk across the Williamsburg Bridge from Manhattan is about 25 minutes. Brooklyn Brewery is 10 minutes north on North 11th Street. The Wythe Hotel on Wythe Avenue, if you want to stay in the neighbourhood, has a rooftop with good Manhattan skyline views.