Persepolis

Alexander the Great burned Persepolis in 330 BCE. Whether it was deliberate retribution for the Persian sack of Athens 150 years earlier, or an accident that got out of hand during a celebration, remains contested. The fire destroyed the timber roofs and burned the mud-brick fill between the stone columns, but it left the stone platform, the doorways, and the extraordinary bas-relief sculpture mostly intact. 2,300 years of subsequent neglect have done less damage to this site than the afternoon heat does to some visitors who arrive inadequately prepared.

The Site

Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Persian Empire, construction begun by Darius I around 515 BCE and continued by Xerxes and Artaxerxes. The stone terrace covers about 125,000 square metres against the backdrop of Rahmat Mountain, 57 kilometres northeast of Shiraz.

The centrepiece is the Apadana staircase, with its famous bas-relief friezes showing delegations from 23 nations of the empire bringing tribute to the Persian king: Medes, Elamites, Egyptians, Lydians, Bactrians, Indians, and others, each identifiable by their dress, hairstyles, and offerings. The level of detail and the sheer extent of the friezes represent the most complete surviving visual record of the Achaemenid world. The sculpture was designed to be read, not just looked at; a local guide who can walk you through the procession and identify the different delegations adds enormously to the visit.

The Gate of All Nations has surviving bull capitals and cuneiform inscriptions. The Throne Hall (Hundred-Column Hall) retains its column bases. The Palace of Darius has some of the best-preserved carved doorways on the site.

Visiting

Entry costs around 500,000 Iranian rials; check current rates as Iranian currency fluctuates. Hours are generally 8am to 6pm. The site museum holds original sculptures and objects removed from exposed positions for preservation.

Allow at least two hours; three to four is appropriate for anyone with genuine interest. The exposed white stone becomes blinding in direct midday sun and the heat in summer is serious. Early morning or late afternoon is the right time, both for photography and for comfort. Hire a local guide at the site or through a Shiraz agency; the reliefs require context to read properly and a good guide makes a two-hour visit feel shorter while covering more.

Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab

About 6 kilometres north, Naqsh-e Rostam has four Achaemenid royal tombs cut into the cliff face, belonging to Darius I, Xerxes I, Artaxerxes I, and Darius II. Below the tomb facades are six Sassanian rock reliefs from the 3rd century CE, including the scene of Roman Emperor Valerian kneeling before Shapur I following his capture in 260 CE. This is one of the clearest artistic records of a Roman military humiliation that exists anywhere. Naqsh-e Rajab, 3 kilometres closer to Persepolis, has additional Sassanian reliefs.

Most tours from Shiraz include both sites together in a half-day excursion. They should not be skipped.

Shiraz

The base city has a well-developed tourist infrastructure: guesthouses, hotels, and tour operators who regularly arrange Persepolis visits. The Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, the “Pink Mosque,” has stained glass that floods the interior with coloured light in the morning hours and is one of the more photogenic interiors in Iran. The Vakil Bazaar and surrounding historic district repays half a day. The Shirazi salad (cucumber, tomato, onion, dried mint, lime) is the local version of something you’ll eat everywhere in Iran, and it’s better here than elsewhere.