Old Cartagena, Colombia

Old Cartagena, Colombia

The Spanish colonial fortifications that surround Cartagena’s old city took nearly two centuries to complete, the construction repeatedly interrupted by pirate attacks from English, French, and Dutch forces that targeted the port’s silver trade. Francis Drake sacked the city in 1586. The walls that eventually stopped future raids – some sections 17 metres thick – also created a compact urban form that has preserved the colonial architecture better than most Latin American ports. The result is a place that manages to feel genuinely alive rather than preserved for tourism. People live inside the walls. Local life continues alongside the guesthouses and restaurants.

Cartagena is firmly on the tourist circuit and prices in the walled city reflect it. Go in the early morning or evening when the day-trippers retreat and the light is better anyway.

What to See

Ciudad Amurallada (the Walled City) is itself the attraction. Walking the circuit of the walls, particularly the stretch from Puerta del Reloj toward Las Bovedas, takes 45 to 60 minutes at a slow pace. The views down into the streets and out over the Caribbean are excellent from various points.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas is the main fortress, a large and complex structure begun in 1536 and expanded over two centuries. The tunnels inside the walls are the most interesting architectural feature. Allow 1 to 2 hours; the midday heat makes an early morning visit considerably more comfortable.

Getsemaní, just outside the walled city, went from one of Cartagena’s struggling neighbourhoods to one of the best areas for street art and restaurants over the past decade. Spend an afternoon here rather than staying entirely within the walls.

Plaza Santo Domingo is the social hub, lined with restaurants and almost always busy. The Fernando Botero sculpture of the reclining woman gets photographed constantly; the Cathedral Basilica fronting the square is worth going in for.

Eating

La Cevicheria is consistently excellent for fresh seafood. The shrimp ceviche is the standard order. It’s small, gets busy, and takes no reservations; arrive at opening.

Caramelo in a colonial mansion does good traditional Colombian cooking with a slightly elevated presentation. Worth a dinner reservation.

Staying

Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa is among the best hotels in the walled city: a restored colonial building with a rooftop pool and harbour views.

Casa San Agustin, housed in a former 17th-century monastery, has a rooftop terrace that is excellent for watching the evening activity over the old city.

Budget travellers will find cheaper options in Getsemaní, which is within easy walking distance and generally safe since the area’s development.

Day Trips

The Rosario Islands are reachable by fast boat from La Bodeguita pier (about 45 minutes). Good snorkelling, clear water, beach restaurants. Crowded on weekends; quieter midweek.

El Totumo mud volcano (about an hour northeast) is an active mud crater you can climb inside and float in. It’s gimmicky, surprisingly fun, and easy to combine with a beach stop on the return.