Montenegro, Balkans

Montenegro: Europe’s Smallest Country With Genuinely Oversized Mountains

Montenegro is roughly the size of Connecticut and contains an Adriatic coastline, a UNESCO-listed bay, a glaciated national park with peaks above 2,500 metres, and one of the deepest canyons in Europe. It joined NATO in 2017 and is a candidate for EU membership. Tourism has grown quickly since 2010, particularly along the coast, and the Bay of Kotor now gets a significant cruise ship presence in summer. The interior remains comparatively untouched.

Bay of Kotor

The Bay of Kotor is often described as the only genuine fjord in southern Europe, though geologically it is a flooded river canyon rather than a true fjord. The distinction does not matter much visually; the bay is enclosed and dramatic, the water is deep and calm, and the medieval towns along its shores are some of the best-preserved in the Balkans.

Kotor old town is enclosed by 4.5 kilometres of Venetian walls that climb the cliff directly above the town. The town was under Venetian administration from 1420 to 1797, and the architecture reflects this: narrow stone lanes, carved doorways, and the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon with its 12th-century Romanesque facade. Climb the walls to the Fortress of Saint John at the top; 1,500 steps, about ninety minutes, the views are worth every one. Entry to the walls costs EUR 8.

Perast is 12 kilometres by road around the inner bay - a small town of palaces and bell towers that once served as the Venetian naval training ground. The two artificial islands in the bay in front of Perast are the main attraction: Our Lady of the Rocks (a Catholic church built on a reef that was gradually enlarged over centuries by local sailors depositing stones and sunken ships) and St George (a Benedictine monastery that predates the church). Boats to the islands leave from Perast waterfront for about EUR 5.

July and August, the Bay of Kotor is packed with cruise ship passengers at the main Kotor anchorage. Perast is slightly less affected but still busy. Arriving in either place before 9am or after 4pm significantly changes the experience.

Durmitor National Park

Durmitor is in northern Montenegro, about 2.5 hours by road from the coast. The park surrounds the Durmitor massif, a glaciated limestone plateau with 48 peaks above 2,000 metres and 18 glacial lakes. The Black Lake (Crno Jezero) is the most accessible - a 30-minute walk from the mountain town of Zabljak, deep blue against pine forest and rock walls.

Hiking in Durmitor is the main activity and the trails are good. The Durmitor ring trail (around 60km over 3 to 4 days) circles the massif; the one-day ascent of Bobotov Kuk (2,523 metres, the highest peak) takes around 7 hours from Zabljak and requires reasonable fitness but no technical mountaineering. The views from the summit encompass almost the entire country.

The Tara Canyon is adjacent to the park - at 1,300 metres deep, one of the deepest river canyons in Europe. Whitewater rafting on the Tara River runs from May through October, covering 18 kilometres of rapids at varying grades. Several operators in Zabljak offer full-day trips for around EUR 40 to 60 per person including transport and equipment.

Zabljak is the only town of note in the park area. It has basic accommodation, a few decent restaurants, and the infrastructure for outdoor activities.

Budva Riviera and Old Town

Budva is Montenegro’s main tourist resort town, with a well-preserved old town (a peninsula of medieval walls similar in character to Kotor) surrounded by beach resort development that is architecturally less distinguished. In July and August, the beaches at Jaz, Becici, and Sveti Stefan are significantly crowded.

Sveti Stefan is the famous island village 5 kilometres south of Budva - a medieval fortified town on a small peninsula, converted into a private hotel in the 1950s. It reopened as Aman Sveti Stefan in 2009 and is now one of the most expensive resort properties in the Balkans. Non-guests can access the beaches on either side of the causeway but cannot enter the island itself. The view from the road above is the standard photograph.

Skadar Lake

Skadar Lake on the southeastern border with Albania is the largest lake in the Balkans, shared between the two countries. The Montenegrin national park section covers the northern two-thirds. The lake is important for bird migration (pelicans, cormorants, herons) and has several monastery islands accessible by boat from Virpazar village.

A half-day boat tour from Virpazar costs around EUR 20 to 30 per person and covers the monastery island of Kom, fishing villages, and good birdwatching on the lake margins. The best light is early morning.

Where to Eat

Montenegrin food is simple and relies on good ingredients. Njeguski prsut (smoked ham from the Njeguski plateau village) and Njeguski sir (semi-hard sheep and cow milk cheese) are the regional specialities, available at almost every restaurant. Order them as a starter rather than searching specifically for them.

Grilled river trout is the standard inland order; the fish from the Tara and Moraca rivers is good.

Lovcen Restaurant above Cetinje does traditional food with views across the plateau for reasonable prices - around EUR 15 to 20 per head. Worth the drive.

In Kotor, most restaurants on the main square are tourist-priced. The lanes behind and above Trg od Oruza have less expensive options with similar quality.

Where to Stay

Palazzo Radomiri in Donji Morinj on the Bay of Kotor is an 18th-century palazzo converted into a small luxury hotel. Twelve rooms, pool on the waterfront, doubles from around EUR 180 in shoulder season. The setting is the best on the bay.

Hikers’ Den in Zabljak is the standard budget accommodation for Durmitor visitors: clean dormitory and private rooms, information board about current trail conditions, from EUR 25 per bed.

Eco-House Fatiha in Virpazar near Skadar Lake is a family-run guesthouse with a boat for lake excursions and cooking from the garden and lake. EUR 50 per night including breakfast.

Getting Around

Montenegro has no functioning passenger railway. Everything moves by road. The main coastal highway (M2) is congested in summer between Kotor and Budva; drive at off-peak hours or add an hour to any journey estimate. Renting a car is strongly recommended for anything beyond the coast; the interior is only accessible with your own transport.

Tivat has an airport with international connections (mostly to Russia, UK, and Europe), as does Podgorica. Bus connections between towns are frequent but slow.

May, June, and September are the practical months: warm enough for coast and mountains, crowds manageable, and the full range of outdoor activities running.