Montenegro: Europe’s Smallest Country With Genuinely Oversized Mountains

Montenegro is roughly the size of Connecticut and contains an Adriatic coastline, a UNESCO-listed bay, a glaciated national park with peaks above 2,500 metres, and one of the deepest river canyons in Europe. It joined NATO in 2017 and is a EU membership candidate. Tourism has grown quickly along the coast since 2010, and the Bay of Kotor now gets significant cruise ship traffic in summer. The interior remains comparatively untouched, and that is where the most interesting parts are.

Bay of Kotor

The Bay of Kotor is often called the only true fjord in southern Europe, though it is geologically a flooded river canyon rather than a glacially carved fjord. The distinction does not matter much visually. The bay is enclosed and dramatic, the water deep and calm, and the medieval towns along its shores are among the best-preserved in the Balkans.

Kotor old town is enclosed by 4.5 kilometres of Venetian walls that climb the cliff directly above. The town was under Venetian administration from 1420 to 1797, and the architecture reflects it: narrow stone lanes, carved doorways, and the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon with its 12th-century Romanesque facade. Climb the walls to the Fortress of Saint John; 1,500 steps, about 90 minutes, views that encompass the entire inner bay. Entry EUR 8. Dormitory beds in Kotor run EUR 18-28 in high season; main courses at local konoba restaurants EUR 6-10.

Perast, 12 kilometres by road around the inner bay, is a small town of palaces and bell towers that once served as the Venetian naval training ground. The two artificial islands in the bay in front – Our Lady of the Rocks (a Catholic church built on a gradually enlarged reef) and St George (a Benedictine monastery) – are the main attraction. Boats leave from the waterfront for about EUR 5.

July and August: the Bay of Kotor is packed with cruise ship passengers. Arriving before 9am or after 4pm significantly changes the experience. May, June, and September are the practical months.

Durmitor National Park

Durmitor is in northern Montenegro, about 2.5 hours by road from the coast. The park surrounds a glaciated limestone plateau with 48 peaks above 2,000 metres and 18 glacial lakes. The mountain town of Zabljak, at 1,450 metres the highest town in the Balkans, is the base.

The Black Lake (Crno Jezero) is 30 minutes on foot from Zabljak. The 4-kilometre trail around the lake is an easy hike suitable for most fitness levels. The one-day ascent of Bobotov Kuk (2,523 metres, the highest peak) takes about 7 hours from Zabljak and requires reasonable fitness but no technical mountaineering.

The Tara Canyon – at 1,300 metres deep, one of the deepest in Europe – is adjacent to the park. Whitewater rafting on the Tara River runs May through October; full-day trips from EUR 40-60 per person.

Other Highlights

Sveti Stefan near Budva is the famous island village converted into Aman’s most expensive property in the Balkans in 2009. Non-guests can access the beaches on either side of the causeway but cannot enter the island. The view from the road above is the standard photograph and costs nothing.

Skadar Lake on the southeastern border with Albania is the largest lake in the Balkans, with monastery islands accessible by boat from Virpazar village; EUR 20-30 per person for a half-day tour.

Where to Eat

Njeguski prsut (smoked ham) and Njeguski sir (semi-hard sheep and cow’s milk cheese) are the regional specialities – order them as a starter at almost any restaurant. Grilled river trout from the Tara and Moraca rivers is the standard inland order.

Getting Around

Montenegro has no functioning passenger railway. Everything moves by road. A rental car is essential for anything beyond the coast. Flying into Podgorica is usually cheaper than Tivat. The main coastal highway between Kotor and Budva is congested in summer; drive at off-peak hours.