Madagascar

Madagascar separated from the Indian subcontinent around 88 million years ago and has been effectively isolated ever since. That isolation produced something extraordinary: an island where roughly 90 percent of wildlife species are found nowhere else on earth, including all 110-plus species of lemur, six of the world’s eight baobab species, and more than half of the world’s chameleon species. Visiting Madagascar means encountering animals and plants that evolved completely independently of the rest of the planet. That is, honestly, a better pitch for the place than anything involving beaches.

The country has 587,000 square kilometres, making it roughly twice the size of the British Isles, and the variation in landscapes across that area is dramatic: humid rainforest in the east, dry deciduous forest in the west, spiny desert in the south, and highland plateau in the centre. Any sensible trip requires choosing a focus; trying to see everything in a single visit is the quickest path to spending your entire time in cars or small planes on dirt airstrips.

Getting There and Entry

Ivato International Airport in Antananarivo (Tana) handles most international arrivals. Air Madagascar connects with several African hubs; Air France, Ethiopian Airlines, and a handful of regional carriers also serve the route. Flying from Europe typically involves a connection, and total journey times of 14 to 20 hours are common.

Since February 2026, the e-visa for stays up to 15 days costs 30 euros (approximately 35 USD), tripled from the previous rate. The e-visa must be applied for at least 72 hours before arrival and the approval must be printed and presented on entry. A 30-day tourist visa is available on arrival for a higher fee. Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond the entry date, and proof of onward travel is required. Travellers who have been in a yellow fever risk country in the six days before arrival must carry a yellow fever vaccination certificate.

The US State Department and UK Foreign Office both currently rate Madagascar at Level 2 (exercise increased caution). Petty theft, carjacking, and street crime are genuine concerns in Antananarivo and in some nature reserves. Travelling with reputable local operators and staying alert in urban areas is more than box-checking advice.

Where to Go

Antananarivo is the capital and the almost unavoidable starting point. The Rova Royal Palace complex on the ridge above the city offers a useful introduction to Malagasy history (much of it involving the Merina Kingdom that controlled the highlands before French colonisation in 1896). The Andrianjaky central market is worth a morning for food, crafts, and general immersion. The city is noisy, traffic-heavy, and fascinating in patches; most visitors spend one or two nights here rather than planning an extended stay.

Ranomafana National Park in the southeast highlands is the best introductory lemur destination for first-time visitors. Twelve lemur species have been recorded here, including the golden bamboo lemur that was only discovered in 1985 and exists only in this park. Guided walks are mandatory inside all Madagascar national parks (a regulation that has been strictly enforced since 2010), and the guides here are generally excellent. The park is accessible by a half-day drive from Fianarantsoa, which is itself a six-hour drive from Tana or reachable by the slow but remarkable Fianarantsoa-Côte Est railway.

Isalo National Park in the south is geologically different: sandstone massifs carved by water into canyons, oases, natural swimming pools, and rock formations. It is the hiking park, and the contrast between its red rock landscape and the rest of Madagascar is striking. It is not primarily a lemur destination, though several species are present. The park is best based from the town of Ranohira.

Tsingy de Bemaraha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the west, is the most logistically demanding of Madagascar’s major parks but arguably the most visually arresting. The “tsingy” are razor-sharp limestone karst formations, some rising 30 metres, with a network of canyons, caves, and hanging bridges that form the main circuit. Access is through the village of Bekopaka, which involves either a flight to Morondava and a long drive on rough roads (several hours including a river ferry crossing) or a direct charter flight. The park is closed from approximately November to March due to rain. In 2026, the park entry fee is around 65,000 Malagasy Ariary (roughly 14 to 15 USD) per person per day, plus a mandatory guide fee of 80,000 to 150,000 MGA per day, payable in cash in Ariary only at the park gate. No online booking exists; you simply arrive and organise on the ground in Bekopaka.

The Avenue of the Baobabs near Morondava is the most-photographed sight in Madagascar: a dirt road lined with around 25 Grandidier’s baobabs standing up to 30 metres tall, their cylindrical trunks glowing gold at sunrise and sunset. Arab seafarers who encountered baobabs believed the devil had planted them upside-down; the bare trunk and small crown do suggest a tree growing the wrong way around. Some of the trees on this road are estimated at 800 to 1,200 years old and are survivors of a dry forest that was cleared centuries ago for agriculture. The avenue itself takes about 20 minutes to walk. A 1-kilometre walk from the main avenue leads to the Baobab Amoureux, two smaller trunks intertwined. The Kirindy Forest Reserve about 45 kilometres north is a far better wildlife destination (fossa, eight lemur species, enormous chameleons) and is typically combined with the baobab visit as a day or overnight trip.

Nosy Be is the main beach destination, an island off the northwest coast reached by flight from Tana or by ferry from the mainland port of Ankify. It is genuinely tropical, has good snorkelling and diving, and the Perfume Island name comes from the ylang-ylang and vanilla plantations that cover parts of it. Expectations for standard of service and infrastructure should be calibrated accordingly; this is not the Maldives, and the electricity supply is unreliable. What it offers is relatively unspoiled water in a generally warm and relaxed atmosphere at prices well below comparable Indian Ocean destinations.

Food

Malagasy cooking is built around rice, which is eaten at every meal (breakfast included, often as a watery porridge called vary sosoa). The most common protein is zebu, the humped cattle that are central to Malagasy culture and economy, typically slow-cooked in stews. Romazava is the national dish: a broth of zebu meat with leafy greens including the slightly bitter anamalaho leaves. Ravitoto is pork cooked with crushed cassava leaves and has a deeper, earthier flavour. On the coasts, grilled fish and seafood with rice is the everyday default.

In tourist-facing restaurants in Tana and resort areas, the French colonial legacy is present in both the menu structure and the quality of bread, which is often surprisingly good. In rural areas and national park towns, you eat what is available.

Where to Stay

In Antananarivo, Hotel de la Gare in the lower city is a convenient and reasonable mid-range choice. More upscale options cluster in the Ivandry and Isoraka neighbourhoods, some in renovated colonial villas with gardens. Near Ranomafana, several eco-lodges and small hotels operate at the park entrance; Centre ValBio (the research station adjacent to the park) sometimes accepts tourist accommodation when space permits.

In Nosy Be, Lemuria Hotel and Spa by Vintage Collection is a reliable upscale option with a private beach. Budget lodging is available throughout the island but standards vary considerably.

Key Practical Points

Madagascar’s road network is genuinely difficult outside the highlands. The RN7 south from Tana to Tulear is the best-maintained route in the country and is the backbone of the classic southern circuit (Isalo, Ranomafana, Zombitse-Vohibasia). Travel times between major points on other routes are routinely double what the map distance suggests.

The rainy season (roughly November to March) affects access significantly: some parks close, some roads become impassable, and Tana itself experiences regular flooding. The dry season from May to October is the standard travel window, with June through September considered peak.

The Malagasy Ariary (MGA) is the currency. USD and euros can be exchanged at banks and hotels in major towns; outside of those settings, you need local cash. ATMs exist in Tana and some larger cities but are unreliable upcountry.