Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon: Europe’s Most Underrated Capital Is Becoming Less So

Lisbon spent most of the 20th century in relative obscurity while Paris, Rome, and Barcelona absorbed the tourist masses. That has changed dramatically in the last decade. The city now receives around 4 million overnight visitors annually, up from 1.5 million in 2010. Prices have risen accordingly, particularly in Alfama and Bairro Alto, but remain below most Western European capitals. The window where Lisbon feels cheap and uncrowded has mostly closed. What remains is a genuinely beautiful city with better food than you will find in Madrid or Paris for the equivalent money.

The Neighbourhoods

Alfama is the oldest part of the city, a Moorish-era district of steep narrow lanes covering the hill below the castle. It looks more or less as it did a century ago: whitewashed houses with azulejo tiles, cats on doorsteps, the sound of fado coming from restaurants in the evening. It is also heavily touristic now, with souvenir shops outnumbering actual neighbourhood businesses in the main lanes. Explore the side streets uphill from the main tourist routes.

Bairro Alto is the nightlife district on the opposite hill. By day it is quiet; from 10pm onwards the bars fill up and the streets become a promenade. It is genuinely lively and not particularly safe at 2am if you are not paying attention.

Baixa and Chiado are the historic downtown streets, rebuilt in the grid pattern by the Marquis of Pombal after the 1755 earthquake and tsunami that destroyed most of the city. Praça do Comércio on the waterfront is the ceremonial entrance to the city; the neoclassical square opens onto the Tagus. Chiado is the more upmarket shopping area with good independent bookshops and cafes.

Mouraria, behind the castle and north of Alfama, is the old Moorish quarter and the actual origin of fado as a musical form. Less visited than Alfama but equally atmospheric and more authentically lived-in.

Belém, 6 kilometres west along the river, is where you go for the Jeronimos Monastery and the Belem Tower. It is a separate trip from the city centre: take the 15E tram from Praca da Figueira or a direct bus.

What to See

Jeronimos Monastery in Belem is the greatest example of Manueline architecture, a Portuguese hybrid of late Gothic and maritime decorative elements. The cloister is the specific thing to see - two storeys of carved stone arches with twisted ropes, armillary spheres, and coral motifs. Entry is EUR 12; free on Sunday mornings before 2pm (expect queues). Vasco da Gama is buried in the church.

Castelo de Sao Jorge is the Moorish castle at the top of the Alfama hill. The current walls are mostly 11th-century Arab construction rebuilt by the Portuguese after 1147. The views from the battlements are the best in central Lisbon. Entry EUR 15.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo (tile museum) is in a converted convent in the Beato neighbourhood east of the centre. The collection covers five centuries of Portuguese tin-glazed ceramic tiles, from the earliest Spanish imports through the decorative peak of the 18th century to modern azulejo artists. This is the best tile collection in the world and most visitors skip it in favour of the Alfama. Give it two hours. Entry EUR 7.

LX Factory is a redeveloped industrial complex in Alcantara near Belem, now housing design studios, restaurants, bars, and a Sunday market. The Sunday market (10am to 6pm) is the best in Lisbon for vintage clothing, plants, and food trucks.

Tram 28: Do It, But Know What You Are Getting

Tram 28 is the historic yellow tram route that climbs through Alfama and Graca. It is genuinely a working tram that residents use. It is also crowded with tourists from around 10am and is a known pickpocket route. Ride it early morning or late evening. Buy a single ticket from the driver or use a Viva Viagem card (reloadable, available from metro stations, works on buses, trams, and metro).

Where to Eat

The Time Out Market in Cais do Sodre is convenient and not terrible but it is a food hall optimised for tourist throughput. Better to eat at actual restaurants.

Taberna da Rua das Flores in Chiado does creative Portuguese petiscos (small plates) in a small, tiled room. Expect to share a table. The pork with clams (carne de porco a Alentejana) is the reliable order. About EUR 25 per head.

Solar dos Presuntos near Rossio is one of the better traditional Portuguese restaurants in the city - long-running, unfashionable, not cheap (EUR 35 to 50 per head) but the roasted suckling pig and seafood rice are done properly.

For pasteis de nata, the original recipe is at Pasteis de Belem in Belem, which has been making them since 1837. The queues are real; go before 10am or after 3pm. The recipe is officially secret. The custard is slightly different from the versions sold everywhere in Lisbon - more eggy, crispier pastry, dusted with cinnamon.

For a simple lunch, the tascas (traditional lunch rooms) around the Intendente neighbourhood north of Rossio serve the daily fish or meat dish with soup, bread, and wine for around EUR 10. This is how Lisbon still eats at lunchtime when not trying to impress anyone.

Where to Stay

Bairro Alto Hotel in Chiado is the best address in central Lisbon, from around EUR 300 per night. The rooftop bar has views across the Baixa rooftops to the castle.

Solar dos Mouros in Alfama is a boutique hotel in an 18th-century building with castle views. Doubles from around EUR 200. The location means navigating steep cobblestones with luggage; manageable but worth knowing.

For mid-range, The Independente Hostel and Suites in Bairro Alto does private rooms with character from around EUR 80. The communal areas are good and the location is central.

Practical Notes

  • The Viva Viagem card (EUR 0.50 from metro station machines) is the most efficient way to pay for public transport. Charge it with credit for individual journeys or buy a 24-hour unlimited pass for EUR 6.80.
  • Lisbon is significantly hillier than it looks on a map. The funiculars (elevadores) are a practical transport option and cost the same as a tram ticket.
  • Credit cards are accepted widely, including in most taxis. Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory; 5 to 10 percent is the local norm.
  • October is optimal: summer heat gone, crowds manageable, the Douro wine harvest is happening two hours north if you want to extend.
  • The Lisbon Card (EUR 22 for 24 hours) covers most museums and public transport; worth it if you plan an intense sightseeing day.