Lhasa

At Sera Monastery on a weekday afternoon around 3pm, monks sit in pairs in the courtyard arguing Buddhist philosophy. They punctuate their points with a sharp hand clap, lean forward into their opponent’s space, and sit back again to wait for the response. This has been happening at this monastery since it was founded in 1419. It is not a performance for visitors. It is a genuine debate practice, one of the most distinctive things you will see in Lhasa, and most tourists don’t know to look for it.

The Practicalities

Getting to Lhasa requires a Tibet Travel Permit obtained through a registered travel agency, on top of a valid Chinese visa. Rules around permits change periodically; verify current requirements before booking anything. The permit cannot be obtained independently; you must use an agency.

The city sits at 3,650 metres. Plan two rest days at the start before doing anything strenuous. Altitude sickness hits most visitors regardless of fitness; headaches, breathlessness, and fatigue are normal in the first 48 hours. Stay hydrated, avoid alcohol initially, and don’t push hard. Descend immediately if you develop severe headache, confusion, or breathing difficulty.

Potala Palace

The Potala rises 13 storeys from Marpori Hill: over 1,000 rooms, the winter palace of the Dalai Lamas, constructed largely in the 17th century. Entry is ticketed and strictly limited; book through your tour agency well ahead. The climb up the approach stairs takes 15 to 20 minutes at altitude; take it slowly. The prescribed interior route covers the main halls, chapels, and the tombs of former Dalai Lamas. Photography is restricted inside but the rooftop views over the city are excellent.

Jokhang Temple

The Jokhang is the most sacred temple in Tibetan Buddhism. Built in the 7th century, it houses the Jowo Rinpoche, a 1,300-year-old image of the young Shakyamuni Buddha that draws pilgrims from across Tibet. The queues to the inner sanctum can be long. Inside: candlelit, smoky with incense, genuinely devotional. The rooftop has good views over Barkhor Square.

Barkhor Street surrounding the Jokhang is the traditional pilgrimage circuit; devotees walk it clockwise throughout the day. Worth completing the full circuit early in the morning when pilgrims outnumber souvenir stalls.

Eating

Tibetan food is warming and hearty. Tsampa (roasted barley mixed with butter tea) is the staple. Thukpa (noodle soup) and Momo (dumplings, steamed or fried) are widely available and good. Yak meat features in various preparations. Tibet Kitchen Restaurant in the Old Town is reliable.

Staying

House of Shambhala in the Old City is a heritage guesthouse with genuine atmosphere. St. Regis Lhasa Resort is the luxury option. Tibet Moonlight Hotel is practical mid-range with a central location.