Lençóis Maranhenses, Brazil

Lençóis Maranhenses is not technically a desert, though it looks like one. The rolling white sand dunes along Brazil’s northeast coast receive enough rain each year to fill thousands of rainwater lagoons trapped between the dune ridges, turning the landscape into something genuinely strange: dunes full of swimming holes, some warm and shallow, some cold and several metres deep, all vivid blue or green against white sand. In July 2024, the park was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List, which now means stricter access regulations and an obligation to visit with licensed guides. The ecosystem is fragile enough to warrant that.

The lagoons are fullest between May and September; June and July are the peak. By November the water has largely evaporated and the dunes are dry. Go in the rainy season – paradoxically – for the full effect.

Getting There

The main access point is Barreirinhas, roughly 260 km from São Luís (the state capital of Maranhão). Fly to São Luís from most major Brazilian cities, then bus or hire car for the 4-hour road journey. There is no public transport into the park. Jeep tours with licensed operators run daily from Barreirinhas to the main lagoons; full-day tours cost around BRL 150-200 per person and are now required by the UNESCO designation for most areas. The tracks into the dunes require local knowledge.

The Lagoons

Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita are the most famous and most visited. Lagoa Emendadas is equally good and considerably quieter; worth requesting specifically from your operator.

The Preguiças River boat trip from Barreirinhas winds through mangrove and sandbar country to the coast and the lighthouse at Mandacaru, showing a different and quieter landscape to the dune interior. Allow half a day.

You can swim in any of the lagoons. The water is clean. The UV reflection off white sand burns faster than most visitors expect – cover up and reapply sunscreen throughout the day.

Base Towns

Barreirinhas is functional rather than attractive, with adequate guesthouses, restaurants, and all tour operator infrastructure. Atins is a smaller, quieter village on the eastern edge accessible only by 4x4 or boat – better for multiple days on the dunes without returning to town each evening. The pools near Atins dry out earlier in the season (mid-August typically) than those near Barreirinhas. Santo Amaro on the western edge is a third option.

Stay at least 3-4 days to cover the main lagoons from Barreirinhas, a day trip to Atins, and a sunset tour from the dune ridges.

Eating

Maranhão has its own distinctive cuisine, influenced by African, indigenous, and Portuguese traditions. Moqueca de peixe (fish stew in coconut milk and annatto) is the key dish. Cuxá, made with vinagreira leaves and dried shrimp, is specific to Maranhão. In Barreirinhas, Restaurante Iemanjá and Casa do Calé are reliable.

São Luís

Most visitors pass through São Luís en route. The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Portuguese colonial architecture clad in azulejo tiles that have faded to beautiful, irregular blues and greens. The Bumba Meu Boi festival in June fills the streets with costumed processions of extraordinary scale and colour. If your dates overlap, stay an extra day.

Practical Notes

The sun in this part of Brazil is intense year-round. Cover between 11am and 3pm. Insect repellent matters near the mangroves and riverbanks. Cash is essential in Barreirinhas: the ATM network is unreliable and tour operators often work in cash only.