Las Vegas, Nevada
Las Vegas: The Price You See Is Not the Price You Pay
Before booking a hotel room on the Las Vegas Strip, add USD 35 to USD 55 per night to whatever rate you see. That is the mandatory resort fee charged by virtually every major casino hotel, and as of 2026 it applies at the Bellagio, ARIA, Caesars Palace, Wynn, Encore, Venetian, Palazzo, Fontainebleau, and the Waldorf Astoria, among others. With tax, the most expensive properties charge around USD 62 per night in resort fees alone. The FTC’s Unfair Fees Rule that came into force in May 2025 requires hotels to disclose the total price upfront, so you will see the full amount before booking. But the fees themselves have not gone away, and a three-night stay can add USD 150-200 to your bill before you spend a dollar inside.
This is not a reason to avoid Las Vegas. It is a reason to plan accurately and, if possible, to use a hotel loyalty programme or points booking to avoid the fees entirely. MGM Rewards Gold status and Caesars Rewards Diamond status both waive resort fees. Award bookings through World of Hyatt points at partnered properties typically waive them. If you are staying without status or points, the Best Western Plus Casino Royale on the Strip charges no resort fee and offers free parking, making it one of the better value-for-location options in the city.
What Las Vegas Actually Is
Las Vegas did not exist in any meaningful sense until 1905, when it was founded as a railroad water stop. What built the modern city was the 1931 legalisation of gambling in Nevada, combined with the construction of Hoover Dam 50 kilometres away, which employed 25,000 workers and powered the early neon displays on Fremont Street. The Flamingo, opened by mob associate Benjamin Siegel in December 1946 and named after his girlfriend Virginia Hill (whose nickname was “The Flamingo”), was not the first casino on the Strip but became the template for the Las Vegas resort model: big rooms, entertainment, food, and gambling under one roof.
Siegel was murdered in Beverly Hills seven months after the Flamingo opened, apparently because his mob backers suspected he had skimmed at least USD 1 million from the construction budget. The Flamingo itself still operates, now owned by Caesars Entertainment, with no meaningful connection to its original character except the name.
The Sphere
The most genuinely new thing in Las Vegas in years is the MSG Sphere, opened in September 2023 at a cost of USD 2.3 billion. It sits adjacent to the Venetian at 255 Sands Avenue and holds around 17,600 people in an interior designed for fully immersive AV experiences. The exterior is a 54-storey programmable LED surface visible from much of the city.
The permanent film experience “Postcard from Earth” (directed by Darren Aronofsky) runs regularly at around USD 100-120 per ticket and is worth it for the technical spectacle alone, regardless of your interest in the film itself. Concert and event tickets start around USD 150 and can go considerably higher. The 2025-2026 schedule has included Eagles, Zac Brown Band, and Backstreet Boys residencies, with a Floyd Mayweather vs. Manny Pacquiao rematch announced for September 2026.
The Strip
Las Vegas Boulevard South (universally called The Strip) runs about 6.7 kilometres from Mandalay Bay in the south to the Stratosphere (now called the STRAT) in the north. Walking the full length in the summer heat (July and August regularly exceed 40 degrees Celsius) is not practical; use Uber, Lyft, or the Las Vegas Monorail running along the east side of the Strip. The monorail costs USD 6 per ride or USD 17 for a 24-hour pass and connects most major casino stops.
The Fountains of Bellagio on the lake fronting the Bellagio resort run approximately every 15-30 minutes from 3 PM to midnight on weekdays and from noon on weekends. They are free to watch from the footpath, they are genuinely impressive, and they are the single best free activity on the Strip.
The High Roller, a 167-metre observation wheel at the LINQ Promenade, costs around USD 25-35 depending on the time of day and offers good views of the city and the surrounding desert. Daytime views are broader; evening views are more dramatic.
Away From the Strip
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, 25 kilometres west of the Strip, is an outstanding geological site with sandstone escarpments up to 900 metres high. Entry costs USD 25 per vehicle. The 21-kilometre scenic loop drive is suitable for all vehicles; hiking trails range from short nature walks to technical routes. It is a complete contrast to the resort environment and takes around two to three hours as a half-day trip. Go early; the canyon gets very hot by midday in summer.
The Mob Museum downtown on Stewart Avenue opened in 2012 in the former federal courthouse where Kefauver Committee hearings into organised crime were held in 1950. It is the most intellectually serious attraction in Las Vegas: a thoroughly researched museum covering the history of American organised crime, prohibition, and law enforcement, with primary source material and genuine artefacts. Entry is around USD 32 for adults. The building itself is part of the exhibit.
Fremont Street Experience in downtown Las Vegas is a 460-metre covered pedestrian mall with a programmable LED canopy (the Viva Vision screen). It is the original pre-Strip gambling district and has a different atmosphere: noisier, cheaper, and more chaotic than the polished resort hotels on the Strip. The zip lines along the canopy cost USD 30-59. It is an option if you want to see what Las Vegas looked like before the corporate resort model took over.
Where to Eat
Gordon Ramsay Steak at Paris Las Vegas operates at the celebrity-chef end of the market and delivers a competent steakhouse experience with prices around USD 80-150 per person before drinks. It is reliable but not exceptional for the price.
For something more interesting, the best food in Las Vegas is increasingly found outside the casino hotels. Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant on East Flamingo has operated since 1985 with an Italian-American menu that predates the celebrity chef era and consistent quality. Herbs & Rye on Arville Street is a cocktail bar that also serves serious food; it is a neighbourhood restaurant where local industry workers go after shifts.
Inside the casinos, Bouchon Bistro at the Venetian from Thomas Keller is the most reliably excellent option for the price (USD 50-80 per person): classic French bistro food at a high standard in a pleasant room.
For the cheapest reliable meals in Vegas, the In-N-Out Burger on the Strip (across from the LINQ) is USD 10-15 and has a longer queue than most restaurants in the city. The 24-hour diners in older hotels downtown are serviceable and cheap.
Where to Stay
The main decision is Strip versus downtown versus off-Strip. Strip hotels are expensive and add resort fees but put you at the centre of things. Downtown is cheaper (Fremont Street area, D Las Vegas, Golden Nugget) with lower resort fees or none. Off-Strip hotels near the convention centre or Paradise Road are the best value for a base if you are visiting for an event rather than for the casino experience.
The Bellagio (from USD 250/night before resort fees) has the best location on the Strip, a genuinely beautiful interior, and an excellent pool complex open to guests. ARIA (from USD 200/night) is the better-designed modern resort with a cleaner layout and good dining. The Venetian and Palazzo are the best mid-luxury option for room size, as their standard rooms are suites by the standard of other Strip hotels.
Practical Notes
When to go: March through May and September through November are the best months. Summer (June through August) temperatures frequently exceed 40 degrees Celsius and the pool scene is the main activity; the Strip itself becomes uncomfortable for long walks. January and February are genuinely cold; bring a jacket.
Gambling: Table minimums on the Strip run USD 10-25 for blackjack and USD 5-25 for roulette at most casinos. Slot machine payouts are set by the casino and not posted. The house edge on basic blackjack with correct basic strategy is around 0.5 percent; slot machines typically run between 5 and 15 percent house edge. If the budget matters, the table games treat your money better than the machines.
Getting there: Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) is 8 kilometres from the Strip. Taxis to the Strip cost USD 20-25. Uber and Lyft from the rideshare area cost USD 12-18. There is no direct public transit connection, but a bus (the 108 or 109) connects the airport to the Strip for USD 2.
Book shows and high-demand restaurant reservations before you arrive. Walk-in availability for the main Cirque du Soleil productions (O at Bellagio, Mad Apple at New York-New York) is limited on weekends.