Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

Ko Phi Phi is two islands: Phi Phi Don, which has permanent residents, hotels, and a beach town of varying quality, and Phi Phi Leh, which is uninhabited and contains Maya Bay. The archipelago sits between Phuket and Krabi in the Andaman Sea, reachable by ferry from both in about 90 minutes. There are no roads and no vehicles on Phi Phi Don; the whole island is navigated on foot or by longtail boat.

The setting is unquestionably dramatic. Limestone karsts rise vertically from the water, the sea runs clear, and the snorkelling is good. The beach town at Ton Sai Bay is less dramatic: densely packed guesthouses, bars with fire shows, and the particular chaos of an island that has absorbed considerably more visitors than it was designed for. Where you sleep determines most of your experience.

Maya Bay

Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh became famous after the 2000 film The Beach. The subsequent visitor volume degraded the coral significantly; the Thai authorities closed the bay completely from 2018 to 2022 for ecological recovery. It has partially recovered. Day trips arrive by longtail and speedboat from about 8am; the bay is briefly quiet before that and after the day-trip boats return to Phuket around 5pm. Overnight anchoring is no longer permitted. Entry now requires a 400 baht fee.

The bay looks like its photographs, which is a compliment given how often places do not. It is also very small. At peak hours it feels less like a pristine beach than a very attractive outdoor waiting area with good lighting. The surrounding cliffs and the approach by boat are the genuinely impressive parts.

Snorkelling and Diving

Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, about an hour south by speedboat, have some of the best diving in Thailand and regular manta ray sightings. Shark Point and Anemone Reef are closer and covered by standard day trips from Phi Phi Don. A half-day snorkelling tour from Ton Sai costs 500 to 800 baht, and this is worth doing even if you only snorkel.

Where to Stay

Long Beach (Hat Yao), on the southeastern tip of Phi Phi Don, is a 20-minute walk or 5-minute longtail from Ton Sai and substantially quieter. The accommodation is mostly mid-range bungalows and small resorts at 800 to 2,500 baht per night. Staying on Long Beach and taking longtails into town in the evening gives access to the nightlife without being embedded in it – the right balance for most people visiting Phi Phi.

The north of the island (Laem Tong Beach) has larger resort properties and effectively no backpacker infrastructure; it is almost exclusively reached by speedboat transfers arranged through the resorts.

Eating

The Ton Sai town restaurants near the pier are reliable for cheap pad thai and grilled fish at 150 to 300 baht per meal. For quality above the tourist baseline, the restaurants along the walking path east of the viewpoint hill rate consistently better than the pier strip.

Getting There

Ferries run from Phuket’s Rassada Pier and from Krabi Town and Ao Nang. The Phuket route takes 90 to 120 minutes and costs 350 to 500 baht. Speedboats are faster and twice the price. November through April is dry season; May through October brings the southwest monsoon and the ferry schedule contracts significantly – research current crossings if you are visiting in the wet season.