Jerusalem: How to Visit One of the Most Complicated Cities on Earth

Abu Shukri on El-Wad Street in the Muslim Quarter has been serving hummus since 1948. The hummus is made fresh each morning, finished before 2pm, and served with olive oil, whole chickpeas, and fresh pita. Simple tables, no menu, 25-40 ILS for a full lunch. If you eat hummus anywhere in Jerusalem first, everything else will be measured against it.

Jerusalem is holy to three Abrahamic religions simultaneously, divided politically, contested historically, and at the time of writing (June 2026) is in a complex security situation following Israeli-Iranian exchanges. The US State Department rates Israel at Level 3 (Reconsider Travel), with Gaza and border areas at Level 4 (Do Not Travel). Check your government’s current travel advisory before booking. Old City sites were open as of April 2026, but conditions change rapidly; verify before travel. Since January 2025, visitors from visa-exempt countries require an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA-IL) applied at least 72 hours before departure.

The Old City

The Old City covers about one square kilometre divided into four quarters: Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and Armenian. The lanes have been trading since the Byzantine period.

Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif is the single most significant and complicated site on earth. For Jews it is the location of both Temples, the holiest site in Judaism. For Muslims it is the third holiest site in Islam, home to the Dome of the Rock (completed 691 CE, the oldest surviving Islamic monument in the world) and Al-Aqsa Mosque. Non-Muslim access is via the Mughrabi Gate only, Sunday through Thursday approximately 7:30-11am and 1:30-2:30pm. Closed Fridays and Islamic holidays. Entry is free; dress requirements are strict (full-length trousers, shoulders fully covered). Verify hours before visiting; access adjusts without notice.

Western Wall is the retaining wall of the Temple platform, the holiest site at which Jews can pray. Open 24 hours. The plaza divides into men’s and women’s sections; men need a head covering (paper kippot provided). The Western Wall Tunnels (separate ticket, pre-book at thekotel.org) extend along the full length of the ancient wall beneath the current city.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre stands over the site traditionally identified with the crucifixion, burial, and resurrection of Jesus. Six Christian denominations share custody – the key to the main door has been held by a Muslim family since Saladin’s time because the denominations cannot agree on custody. The current structure is primarily 12th-century Crusader with Byzantine foundations. Expect significant crowds at the aedicule (the shrine over the tomb).

Mahane Yehuda Market (the Shuk) in West Jerusalem is the main produce and food market, 15 minutes from the Old City walls. Thursday evenings and Friday mornings before Shabbat are at peak activity. On weekday evenings the market converts to a bar and restaurant area. This is the best food destination in the city.

Beyond the Old City

Israel Museum in West Jerusalem holds the largest collection of Dead Sea Scrolls in the Shrine of the Book and a major archaeology wing covering the entire arc of Levantine civilisation. Entry around ILS 54.

Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial and museum, is the most important institution of its kind anywhere. Plan three to four hours minimum. Entry is free; open Sunday through Thursday 9am to 5pm, Friday 9am to 2pm; closed Saturday.

Mount of Olives gives the best panoramic view of the Old City from the east and has one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in the world, with burials dating back 3,000 years.

Where to Eat

Machneyuda in the Mahane Yehuda area is the benchmark creative Israeli restaurant. Loud, informal, excellent. Book weeks ahead. Azura on Haeshkol Street is a traditional Sephardi restaurant: food cooked overnight in heavy pots – beans, lamb, okra – served from noon until sold out.

Where to Stay

The American Colony Hotel in East Jerusalem is a 19th-century mansion that has served as neutral ground for diplomats and journalists through successive conflicts. Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center is a pontifical guesthouse immediately opposite the Old City’s New Gate. Abraham Hostel in West Jerusalem is the reliable budget option.

Practical Notes

Shabbat (Friday sunset through Saturday night) significantly affects West Jerusalem: many restaurants, shops, and public transport stop. The Old City and East Jerusalem operate normally. Security at major sites includes bag checks and metal detectors; allow extra time.