Jerusalem

Jerusalem: How to Visit One of the Most Complicated Cities on Earth

Jerusalem is holy to three Abrahamic religions simultaneously, divided politically, contested historically, and in a state of ongoing conflict that makes travel advice particularly time-sensitive. Check your government’s travel advisory before booking. As of 2024, most of the Old City is open to tourists, but the situation in the broader region requires current assessment rather than general guidance.

What follows is practical information for visiting the Old City and immediate surroundings, written with the understanding that conditions change.

The Old City: Four Quarters

The Old City of Jerusalem covers about one square kilometre and is divided into the Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and Armenian quarters, separated by lanes and markets that have been trading since the Byzantine period.

Temple Mount / Haram al-Sharif is the single most significant and complicated site. For Jews it is the location of both the First and Second Temples, the holiest site in Judaism. For Muslims it is al-Haram al-Sharif, where the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque stand - the third holiest site in Islam. The compound is under the administrative authority of the Islamic Waqf and is accessible to non-Muslim visitors during limited hours (currently approximately 7:30am to 11:30am and 1:30pm to 2:30pm, Sunday through Thursday; closed to non-Muslims on Fridays and Islamic holidays). Entry is free for non-Muslims; separate tickets for the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa mosque interiors are not always available. Dress requirements are strict: covered shoulders and legs, shoes removed before mosque entry. The views from the plaza are significant.

Western Wall is directly below Temple Mount on the west side - the retaining wall of the Second Temple platform and the holiest site at which Jews can pray. The plaza in front is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Entry is free. Men need a head covering; kippot are available at the entrance. The tunnels beneath the Western Wall (separate ticket, must be pre-booked at thekotel.org) extend along the full length of the ancient wall and are one of the best archaeology tours in the city.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre is in the Christian quarter and stands, according to Christian tradition, over the site of the crucifixion, burial, and resurrection of Jesus. The church is shared between multiple Christian denominations (Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian Apostolic, and others) under a complex arrangement that has produced periodic disputes. The current structure is primarily Crusader-period (12th century) with earlier Byzantine foundations. Expect significant crowds in the main hall and at the aedicule (the small shrine built over the tomb). Photography is permitted in most areas; be quiet and respectful.

Mahane Yehuda Market (the Shuk) is the main fruit, vegetable, meat, and spice market of West Jerusalem, about fifteen minutes walk from the Old City walls. On Thursday evenings and Friday mornings before Shabbat it is at peak activity. The market converts in the evening to a bar and restaurant area popular with locals. This is the best food shopping in the city and genuinely lively.

Beyond the Old City

Israel Museum in West Jerusalem is one of the finest archaeology museums in the world and holds the largest collection of Dead Sea Scrolls (in the Shrine of the Book, a distinctive white dome). The main archaeology wing covers the entire arc of human civilisation in the Levant from prehistoric through the Byzantine period. The model of ancient Jerusalem (1:50 scale, based on 1860s documentation before Ottoman renovations) is useful for understanding what the city looked like at the time of the Second Temple. Entry around ILS 54.

Yad Vashem is the Israeli memorial to the Holocaust and one of the most important museums of its kind in the world. The main historical museum, rebuilt in 2005 to a design by Moshe Safdie, uses a triangular prism of concrete and glass cut into Mount Herzl. The permanent exhibition is exhaustive and genuinely moving; plan three to four hours. Entry is free. Open Sunday through Thursday 9am to 5pm, Friday 9am to 2pm; closed Saturday.

Mount of Olives gives the best panoramic view of the Old City and the Temple Mount from the east. The road to the top runs through Arab East Jerusalem; the view from outside the Seven Arches Hotel is the classic photograph. The Mount has a significant Jewish cemetery (burials here date back 3,000 years) and several important Christian churches including the Church of Gethsemane at the base.

Where to Eat

Machneyuda in the Mahane Yehuda area is the benchmark creative Israeli restaurant, doing Mediterranean-inspired cooking with local ingredients. Loud, informal, excellent. Book weeks ahead. About ILS 200 per head.

Azura on Haeshkol Street is a traditional Sephardi restaurant that has been serving Jerusalem for decades. The food is cooked overnight in heavy pots - beans, lamb, okra - and served from noon until sold out. Budget ILS 60 to 80 per head.

Abu Shukri in the Muslim quarter of the Old City, on El-Wad Street, serves hummus made fresh each morning and finished before 2pm. Simple tables, no menu beyond hummus and falafel, ILS 25 to 40 for a full lunch. This is the hummus to benchmark everything else against.

Palestinian pastry shops in the Muslim quarter sell knafeh (warm shredded pastry over sweet cheese, soaked in sugar syrup) and various baklava forms. Worth eating from the market stalls rather than restaurants.

Where to Stay

The American Colony Hotel in East Jerusalem is a 19th-century pasha’s palace converted in the early 20th century. Historically significant (it was neutral ground used by diplomats and journalists during conflicts) and genuinely beautiful. Doubles from around USD 250.

Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center is a pontifical guesthouse immediately opposite the Old City’s New Gate. Clean, well-run, with one of the better rooftop bar views in the city. ILS 700 to 900 per night for a double.

Abraham Hostel in West Jerusalem is the reliable budget option with good communal areas and walking tours. Dormitory beds from ILS 90.

Practical Notes

  • Shabbat (Friday sunset through Saturday night) significantly affects service availability in West Jerusalem: many restaurants, shops, and public transport stop. The Old City and East Jerusalem operate normally. Plan meals and transport in advance if visiting over Friday to Saturday.
  • The light rail line (Tram Line 1) runs through the city centre and is convenient for reaching the Mahane Yehuda area from the central bus station.
  • Security at major sites includes bag checks and metal detectors. Build in fifteen minutes of queue time at the Old City gates.
  • Photography on the Temple Mount is permitted in the plaza; inside Al-Aqsa Mosque it is not.
  • The situation between Israeli and Palestinian areas in the city is politically contested and daily conditions vary. Follow current travel advice and be observant of the areas you are entering.