Jeju Island South Korea

Jeju Island: South Korea’s Volcanic Outlier and How to See It Properly

Jeju is a volcanic island 90 kilometres off the southern tip of the Korean peninsula. Koreans call it the Hawaii of Korea, which is accurate in the sense that it is subtropical, has a dominant shield volcano, and receives enormous numbers of domestic visitors. It is not accurate in the sense that it resembles Hawaii. What Jeju actually is: a deeply Korean island with a distinct dialect, a matriarchal diving culture that predates written records, lava tube systems that run for kilometres underground, and a central volcano visible from most of the island. Getting beyond the tourist resort infrastructure near Jeju City and into the island’s actual geography requires a rented car and a couple of days.

Hallasan

Hallasan, the dormant shield volcano at the island’s centre, rises to 1,947 metres and is the highest mountain in South Korea. The summit crater, Baekrok Lake, is accessible by two trails: the Gwaneumsa Trail on the north side (8.7 km one way, steep final section, 4 to 5 hours up) and the Seongpanak Trail on the east (9.6 km one way, more gradual, same time). Both trails close after mid-afternoon to prevent hikers from descending in darkness; start early. The summit requires a permit booked at visithalla.jeju.go.kr. In autumn (late October through November), the maple and oak forests on the slopes turn orange and red, making the Gwaneumsa Trail particularly worthwhile. In winter, the summit can be icy and crampons are sometimes necessary.

Seongsan Ilchulbong

The UNESCO World Heritage tuff cone on the eastern tip of the island is a crater formed by an underwater eruption approximately 5,000 years ago. The cone rises 179 metres from the sea and the summit trail (1.5 km, about 45 minutes round trip) gives views into the crater bowl and across the strait to the mainland coast. The path is busy with tour groups from early morning; getting there before 8am gives a substantially different experience. Entry: KRW 2,000 per adult.

The haenyeo (female free-divers) who harvest abalone, sea urchin, and other seafood from the waters around the base demonstrate their craft on a schedule posted at the site; times are not fixed and depend on tides, but morning low tides are usually when they work. The haenyeo tradition is several thousand years old, the women dive without equipment in water reaching 15 metres depth, and the average age of active haenyeo is well over 60. The Haenyeo Museum in Sehwa on the north coast covers the history and practice in detail.

The Lava Tubes

Manjanggul, a UNESCO World Heritage lava tube system, runs 13.4 kilometres underground though only a 1-kilometre section is open to visitors. The tube was formed when the outer surface of a lava flow cooled and hardened while the molten interior continued flowing out, leaving an empty tunnel up to 30 metres wide in sections. The temperature inside is a constant 11 degrees Celsius year-round. Bring a jacket regardless of surface temperature. Entry: KRW 4,000 per adult.

Geomunoreum, the lava tube system nearby, is considered the finest of the island’s tubes but requires a reservation as visitor numbers are strictly capped daily; book at jeju.go.kr.

The Olle Trails

The Jeju Olle Trail is a network of 26 coastal and inland routes totalling 437 kilometres, marked with blue and orange arrows. The routes are designed for day hiking and range from 6 to 22 kilometres. Route 1, beginning at Seyongpo Harbour on the east coast near Seongsan, covers coastal cliffs, small fishing villages, and orange orchards; it is one of the more varied introductions to what the island actually looks like away from the resort areas. The Olle network website (jejuolle.org) has trail descriptions and a downloadable app with GPS tracking.

Where to Eat

Jeju black pork is the genuine local speciality. The island’s indigenous black-bristled pigs were until recently free-range and ate whatever they found, giving the pork a distinctive flavour. The Heuk Dwaeji district near Jeju City has a concentration of black pork restaurants; grilled pork belly (samgyeopsal) with the black pork is what to order, around KRW 15,000 to 20,000 per person. The pork from chains using conventional breeds is not the same product.

Abalone porridge (jeonbok juk) is the other Jeju speciality worth eating. A bowl of abalone porridge with green onion at a haenyeo restaurant near Seongsan runs around KRW 20,000 to 25,000 and is a genuinely distinct meal.

Oromeal Café (in Aewol on the northwest coast) is in a converted dairy farm with excellent views of Hallasan and good coffee from local citrus-infused beans. The Aewol Coastal Road itself, a 2-kilometre stretch between Aewol Port and Gonaepo Port, has become heavily photographed; the café strip here is worth a stop.

Where to Stay

Shinhwa World Marriott Resort on the western side of the island (Andeok-myeon) is the main luxury option, though at this distance from the main sights you genuinely need a car. Rates from around KRW 250,000 to 400,000 per night.

Jeju Lotte Hotel in Jeju City is well-located for the north coast and airport, with city and sea views, from around KRW 150,000 to 250,000 per night.

Guesthouses and small hotels in Seongsan-eup (the village closest to Ilchulbong) are the best base for the eastern side of the island, from around KRW 50,000 to 90,000 per night for a basic but clean guesthouse room.

Getting Around

Jeju City has a bus network but most of the worthwhile sites are not well-served by public transport. Renting a car (from around KRW 40,000 to 70,000 per day for a small car) from the airport is the practical solution. International driving licences are valid. Driving on the island is straightforward; roads are in good condition and traffic outside the city is light. The island is 73 kilometres east to west, so moving between sites takes 45 minutes to an hour.

Practical Notes

  • Jeju is visa-free for visitors from most countries under separate arrangements from the mainland Korean visa regime; check before travelling as specific countries have different arrangements.
  • The citrus season is October through January; Jeju hallabong mandarins are the island’s best-known agricultural product and are sold everywhere in season.
  • Typhoon season runs July through September; storms occasionally cause ferry and flight disruptions.
  • The wind is persistent year-round on the exposed coasts; Jeju is called the island of stones, wind, and women for this reason.