Griffith Observatory

More people have looked through Griffith Observatory’s 12-inch Zeiss refracting telescope than any other telescope on Earth. The count sits above 9 million since the building opened in May 1935, which is a remarkable fact for a piece of optical equipment that professional astronomers essentially never use. The observatory was designed from the start for the public, a democratic impulse written into its founding deed: Griffith J. Griffith donated the land in 1896 specifically so that ordinary Angelenos could observe the sky without needing a university credential.

The building and what’s inside

The structure sits on the southern slope of Mount Lee in Griffith Park at about 300 metres above sea level. The exterior is Beaux-Arts with Art Deco details, finished in the white concrete and copper-panelled domes that have made it one of the most recognisable silhouettes in Los Angeles. The major axes of the original building are aligned precisely north-south and east-west, a decision that carries through into the bronze meridian line now running through the Gottlieb Transit Corridor added during the 2006 renovation.

Inside, the Samuel Oschin Planetarium seats 290 beneath a domed ceiling where a Zeiss star projector can accurately render the night sky from any point on Earth at any moment in history, past or future. During World War II, the same planetarium was used to train military pilots in celestial navigation; in the 1960s, NASA used it to prepare Apollo astronauts. That lineage gives the place a weight that its free entry and family-friendly exhibits don’t fully advertise.

The Big Picture, a photographic mural measuring 152 by 20 feet, depicts the Virgo Cluster of galaxies and is described by the observatory as the largest astronomically accurate image ever produced. It is easy to walk past without stopping. Do not.

One quirk worth knowing: Albert Einstein was considered for the Astronomers Monument outside the building, which honours six historical figures from Hipparchus to Newton. The committee decided it would be inappropriate to include someone who was still alive at the time of construction. Einstein was excluded on a technicality of mortality.

Hours and tickets

The observatory is open Tuesday through Friday from noon to 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 10pm. It is closed Mondays. Admission to the exhibits is free. Planetarium shows in the Oschin theatre cost between 6 and 10 USD depending on age, and tickets are sold only in person on the day of the show. Arriving early matters if you want a particular show, particularly on weekends.

The third Thursday of each month the observatory hosts All Space Considered, a free lecture series covering current topics in astronomy and space science. It runs from 7pm to 8:30pm and fills seats quickly.

Getting there without the parking headache

Weekend sunset visits are spectacular and the road up can back up badly enough that the approach is sometimes closed temporarily, with waits exceeding forty minutes just to make the final turn. The practical solution is to park free in the Greek Theatre lot on Vista Del Valle Drive when there is no concert scheduled, then take the DASH Observatory shuttle up for 50 cents (35 cents with a Metro TAP card). The shuttle runs every 20 to 25 minutes from the Vermont/Sunset Metro Red Line station and stops in front of the observatory. Weekday afternoons are noticeably calmer than weekends if flexibility exists.

Eating before and after

The Cafe at the End of the Universe inside the observatory covers coffee and light snacks. For anything more substantial, The Trails Cafe in the Fern Dell section of Griffith Park is the natural stop before the walk up, with good coffee and pastries in an outdoor setting.

For dinner, Los Feliz Village is fifteen minutes’ drive from the observatory and worth the detour. Little Dom’s on Hillhurst Avenue is a reliable Italian-American neighbourhood restaurant at moderate prices. Kismet, also on Hillhurst, serves Eastern Mediterranean food with Los Angeles produce and has a strong local following. For noodles at low cost, the Thai restaurants on Hollywood Boulevard near Vermont in what locals call Thai Town are a ten-minute drive and significantly cheaper than the Los Feliz options.

Where to stay

There is no accommodation in Griffith Park. The closest useful bases are Los Feliz and Silver Lake for independent travellers who want walkable neighbourhoods, and Hollywood for those who prefer hotels near transit and tourist infrastructure. The Hollywood Roosevelt on Hollywood Boulevard is the historic option in that area. Hotel Amarano in Burbank is convenient for travellers arriving through Burbank Airport rather than LAX and costs less than comparable Hollywood properties.

Practical notes

Temperatures at the observatory drop noticeably after sunset compared to the city below. A jacket is useful even in summer. Clear nights are common in summer (May through October) because of Southern California’s weather patterns; winter rain can close the road. Check the observatory’s website before visiting in December or January. The hiking trails in Griffith Park that reach the observatory add 45 to 90 minutes each way depending on the route; the Western Canyon Trail from the Fern Dell entrance is the most shaded option and significantly less trafficked than the main road walk.