The Gobi Desert, Mongolia and China

The Gobi is the fifth-largest desert in the world, covering around 1.3 million square kilometres across southern Mongolia and northern China. Contrary to what “desert” suggests, large sections of the Gobi are cold, rocky, and grassland rather than sand. The famous sand dunes account for a small fraction of the total area. The landscape shifts dramatically: gravel plains, rocky plateaus, occasional dramatic dune fields, and vast empty sky.

Most independent travellers access it through the Mongolian Gobi, using Dalanzadgad as a base. The Chinese access through Inner Mongolia is a different bureaucratic proposition.

Key Sites in the Mongolian Gobi

Bayanzag (Flaming Cliffs) was made famous by American palaeontologist Roy Chapman Andrews in the 1920s when his expedition discovered the first dinosaur eggs here. The Flaming Cliffs stretch over 3 kilometres of reddish eroded sandstone, glowing dramatically at sunset. About 80 species of dinosaur fossils have been found in the Mongolian Gobi – including Protoceratops and Velociraptor – making Mongolia second only to North America for dinosaur discoveries. Paleontological expeditions continue here in 2025-2026. Fossil fragments are still occasionally found underfoot; removing them is illegal and actively enforced. The site is about 100 km from Dalanzadgad.

Khongoryn Els (Singing Dunes) is the largest sand dune field in Mongolia, stretching about 100 km long and reaching 300 metres in height. The “singing” refers to the deep rumble produced by avalanching sand under certain wind conditions. Camel treks, overnight camps, and the climb to the summit are the main activities. About 180 km from Dalanzadgad.

Yol Valley (Eagle Valley) cuts through the Gobi Gurvansaikhan mountains south of Dalanzadgad. A narrow, shaded canyon that retains ice formations deep into summer due to limited sunlight. Good for walking and occasional lammergeier sightings.

Ongi Monastery ruins sit north of Dalanzadgad: two monastery complexes destroyed by Soviet purges in 1937. The partially restored remains and a small museum cover the pre-purge history. Quiet, dignified, rarely crowded.

Staying and Eating

The ger camp (traditional Mongolian round tent dwelling) is the standard accommodation format. Camps vary from basic to relatively comfortable with en-suite facilities. The Three Camel Lodge near Khongoryn Els is the premium option. Ger to Ger operates a network of family-run ger accommodations with a genuine community-benefit model.

Meals at ger camps are mutton-heavy: buuz (dumplings), boiled mutton, dried curds, and salted tea with milk. Sustaining and repetitive. Bring snacks for long travel days.

Logistics

Dalanzadgad is reachable by domestic flight from Ulaanbaatar (about 1.5 hours) or by road (about 550 km, significantly slower than you expect on Mongolian tracks). Most Gobi tours are arranged through Ulaanbaatar-based operators who handle Russian UAZ vans, drivers, guides, and camp bookings. Going independently without a tour operator is possible but complex: roads are track-only, signposting is absent, and getting stuck without local support is a serious issue.

When to Go

May-June and September-October: manageable temperatures, good light, no snow. July-August is peak season but also the hottest (above 40°C is possible). The Naadam Festival in mid-July (wrestling, archery, horse racing conducted with genuine competitive seriousness) is worth timing a trip around if you can tolerate the heat. Winter is -30°C or below; not for casual visitors.