Glencoe

In February 1692, soldiers from the Earl of Argyll’s regiment spent nearly two weeks as guests in the valley, eating and sleeping in MacDonald homes, before rising before dawn and killing 38 people. The Massacre of Glencoe was not a battle; it was a calculated breach of the Highland code of hospitality, carried out on government orders after the Glencoe MacDonalds missed a deadline to swear loyalty to King William III by six days. The delay was administrative, not political: the magistrate at Fort William refused to accept the oath, and Maclain had to travel to Inveraray to find one who would, arriving a week late through snowstorms. The government knew this and proceeded anyway.

Most visitors to Glencoe today know the massacre happened here. Fewer know that archaeologists found a hoard of 36 coins buried under a house linked to Maclain in 2023, almost certainly hidden by a MacDonald family in the days before or during their flight. The coins included several that originated from France, where Maclain had connections. The glen keeps producing history.

That combination of stunning scenery and specific, documented human catastrophe makes Glencoe different from almost any other Highland valley. The landscape is genuinely magnificent: Buachaille Etive Mor anchoring the eastern approach, the Three Sisters rising steeply from the valley floor, Loch Achtriochtan reflecting grey skies for most of the year. But walking here with some knowledge of what happened in 1692 adds a dimension that purely scenic Highland locations cannot match.

Getting There

Glencoe sits on the A82 between Glasgow and Fort William. From Glasgow, the drive takes around 90 minutes under normal conditions. From Fort William it is 25 minutes. There is no train station in the village of Glencoe itself; the nearest rail access is at Rannoch or Bridge of Orchy on the West Highland Line, from which local buses or taxis complete the journey. Scottish Citylink coaches on the Glasgow to Fort William route stop at Glencoe village and at the Kings House junction, making car-free access feasible if slow.

The National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre

The NTS manages Glencoe National Nature Reserve and operates a visitor centre on the A82, open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. The centre is worth stopping at: a 3D terrain map of the glen gives useful orientation, and a short film narrated by Rory McCann (Sandor Clegane in Game of Thrones, who is from the Highlands) explains the landscape and its history. The Trust maintains 60 km of footpaths across the reserve, ranging from flat riverside walks to the full ridge traverses of Bidean nam Bian and the Aonach Eagach.

NTS car parks in the glen require a fee; the visitor centre car park is the most convenient base for most trails.

What to Do

The Hidden Valley (Coire Gabhail): A two to three hour return walk through a narrow gorge between two of the Three Sisters, opening into a wide natural amphitheatre where the MacDonalds historically hid cattle from raiders. The path is rocky and involves some mild scrambling; it is not suitable for pushchairs or loose footwear, but it is the walk that best captures the character of the glen.

Buachaille Etive Mor: The mountain at the glen’s eastern entrance is photographed from the A82 by almost everyone who passes. Walking to its summit (Stob Dearg, 1,022m) requires a full day and reasonable hill-walking fitness. The view from the top takes in Rannoch Moor, a flat and largely roadless expanse of bog that was impassable for most of history and still feels genuinely remote.

The Aonach Eagach: The ridge line along the northern edge of the glen is one of the most challenging scrambles on the Scottish mainland, with two sections involving genuine exposure and moves that require use of hands. It should not be attempted in poor conditions or by walkers without scrambling experience.

Glencoe Mountain Resort: The ski area operates chairlifts year-round, giving access to elevated viewpoints without the ascent. In winter it is a small but functional ski area with dry slopes and infrastructure. In summer it suits people who want the views with less effort.

Loch Leven and kayaking: Glencoe village sits at the head of Loch Leven. Kayak and canoe hire is available from local operators and the loch offers a calm water alternative to the mountain activities.

Where to Eat and Stay

The Clachaig Inn is the social centre of the valley for walkers and climbers. It has 23 ensuite rooms, a pub with an extensive whisky list, and a kitchen serving local produce from noon until 21:00. It is where most people end up after a day on the hill, and the atmosphere reflects that. Self-catering chalets affiliated with the Clachaig are also available for groups.

The Kingshouse Hotel at the eastern end of the glen, close to the A82/A82 junction at the foot of Buachaille Etive Mor, was rebuilt and expanded a few years ago and now operates at four-star level alongside a bunkhouse. Bunk beds in the bunkhouse cost around 44 GBP; a room in the hotel considerably more. The hotel restaurant is the only food option in that part of the glen, and it is worth booking a table in advance when you book your room.

Glencoe Village (the settlement by the loch, rather than the highland pass) has a handful of guesthouses and the Glencoe Bakery for breakfast. Ballachulish, just across the bridge, has more accommodation options including the Ballachulish Hotel.

Practical Notes

Weather in Glencoe is unpredictable year-round. The valley is one of the wettest places in Scotland, receiving around 3,000 mm of rain annually, which is part of why the landscape is so dramatically green when it is not shrouded in cloud. Waterproofs are not optional. The summer months of July and August bring midges, the tiny biting insects that are the genuine plague of west Highland travel. A head net is worth carrying from June through September.

The A82 through the glen has no roadside parking for most of its length. Use the designated NTS car parks. The road sees significant tourist traffic in summer and road maintenance work sometimes causes delays; check Transport Scotland for current road conditions before travelling.