Edinburgh

Exploring Edinburgh: A Comprehensive Guide for First-Time Visitors

Welcome to Edinburgh, the dramatic capital city of Scotland — a compact, UNESCO-listed capital of black stone and volcanic ridges, where medieval alleys drop off the Royal Mile, Georgian crescents line the New Town, and Arthur’s Seat rises straight out of the city centre. For such a small city (half a million people), Edinburgh punches well above its weight: four Nobel laureates in literature, the world’s largest arts festival every August, a world-class restaurant scene and some of the best urban hill-walking anywhere in Europe. Here’s your guide to making the most of a stay in this magical place.

Accommodation

  1. The Balmoral Hotel. Located on Princes Street above Waverley Station, The Balmoral offers luxurious accommodation with breathtaking views of Edinburgh Castle. The hotel is home to the Michelin-starred Number One Restaurant and the handsome Palm Court for afternoon tea. Its clock tower is famously set two minutes fast so commuters do not miss their train.

  2. The Scotsman Hotel. An atmospheric five-star stay in the former headquarters of The Scotsman newspaper, built in 1905, with Roman-style marble staircases and a handsome whisky bar.

  3. Kimpton Charlotte Square. A design-led boutique spread across a row of restored Georgian townhouses on one of the New Town’s finest squares.

  4. The Witchery by the Castle. Seven gothic candlelit suites at the top of the Royal Mile, each more dramatic than the last.

  5. Waverley Court Apartments / Edinburgh Old Town serviced apartments. Spacious apartments offering the comforts of home with stunning views of the city’s iconic landmarks.

  6. Code Pod Hostel and Castle Rock Hostel. Well-run budget options at the top of the Royal Mile.

Sights to See

  1. Edinburgh Castle. A symbol of the city, this 12th-century-plus fortress on an extinct volcano offers a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s past — the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, the tiny St Margaret’s Chapel and the One O’Clock Gun fired daily.

  2. The Royal Mile. The spine of the Old Town, stretching from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, filled with historic buildings, closes, shops, museums and the Scottish Parliament. Do not miss St Giles’ Cathedral with its distinctive crown steeple and The Real Mary King’s Close below the City Chambers.

  3. Arthur’s Seat. A 251-metre extinct volcano in Holyrood Park whose 45-minute walk-up rewards you with panoramic views of the city, the sea and the Pentlands. Calton Hill, at the east end of Princes Street, offers almost-as-good views with a fraction of the effort.

  4. Palace of Holyroodhouse. The official royal residence in Scotland, with the Queen’s Gallery rotating exhibitions from the Royal Collection and the ruined 12th-century Holyrood Abbey attached.

  5. New Town and Georgian Edinburgh. Wander the neoclassical terraces of Charlotte Square, Heriot Row and Moray Place; visit The Georgian House (the National Trust-run show townhouse on Charlotte Square) and the neighbourhood of Stockbridge for a village-within-the-city feel.

Where to Eat

  1. The Witchery by the Castle. Experience fine dining with a touch of Gothic romance at The Witchery, nestled at the foot of Edinburgh Castle. Book ahead; the pre-theatre menu is excellent value.

  2. The Dining Room at Prestonfield. Innovative Scottish cuisine in the extraordinary setting of 17th-century Prestonfield House, a 15-minute drive from the centre.

  3. Ondine. Outstanding fresh Scottish seafood on George IV Bridge — native oysters, Shetland mussels, langoustines and lobster.

  4. Timberyard, The Little Chartroom, Noto and Lyla. Four of the city’s leading modern kitchens, all worth the journey.

  5. The Scran and Scallie. Chef Tom Kitchin’s gastropub in Stockbridge, great for a proper plate of haggis, neeps and tatties.

  6. Valvona & Crolla. An Edinburgh institution since 1934 — a family-run Italian deli and café on Elm Row.

  7. The Elephant House. Famous for being one of the cafés where J. K. Rowling wrote parts of the early Harry Potter novels, with a view out the back window to Edinburgh Castle.

Things to Do

  1. Scottish National Gallery. Home to an impressive collection of Scottish and international art, from Titian and Rembrandt to Raeburn, McTaggart and the Scottish Colourists. Free entry.

  2. Royal Yacht Britannia. Explore the floating palace of the Royal Family, now moored at Ocean Terminal in Leith.

  3. National Museum of Scotland. A world-class free museum on Chambers Street, with Scottish history, natural history and design under one enormous roof.

  4. Edinburgh Festival Fringe. If you’re visiting in August, do not miss out on the world’s largest arts festival, alongside the Edinburgh International Festival, the Book Festival and the Royal Military Tattoo at the Castle Esplanade.

  5. Ghost tour of the Old Town and vaults. Operators like Mercat Tours run atmospheric evening tours of the Blair Street Underground Vaults.

  6. Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. 70 acres of free gardens just north of Stockbridge, with the paid Chinese Hillside glasshouses as a highlight.

  7. Day trips. Over the iconic Forth Bridge to North Berwick for beaches and puffins, west to Stirling Castle, or further afield to Glencoe, Loch Lomond and the Cairngorms.

Tips for Tourists

  • Edinburgh can be quite hilly and the Old Town is heavily cobbled, so wear comfortable shoes.
  • The weather can be unpredictable, so pack layers and a compact waterproof.
  • Respect local customs and traditions, especially around piping, tartan and the national rivalry with England (which is mostly good-humoured, especially during the rugby Six Nations).
  • Try haggis, neeps and tatties; cranachan for dessert; a flat white from Söderberg; and at least one dram of Scotch in a traditional pub. The Bow Bar and The Canny Man’s are unshowy classics.
  • Lothian Buses and the tram accept contactless payment with a daily cap. The tram runs from Edinburgh Airport, through the city centre to Newhaven.
  • Book popular attractions online in advance, especially Edinburgh Castle, Holyroodhouse and tours of Mary King’s Close.
  • Festival accommodation is booked months ahead and charged at August premiums. If you are coming for the Fringe, plan early.

Edinburgh is a city that truly has something for everyone. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie or just looking for an unforgettable adventure, Edinburgh delivers. Pack your bags, and let the journey begin.