Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

The Dome of the Rock was completed in 691 CE, making it the oldest surviving Islamic monument in the world – older than any building in the Western Hemisphere by several centuries, and older than most of the surviving architecture of medieval Europe. It was built by Umayyad Caliph Abd al-Malik over the Foundation Stone, a natural bedrock outcrop sacred in three religions simultaneously: Judaism identifies it as the site where Abraham prepared to sacrifice Isaac and where the Holy of Holies of the Temple stood; Islam marks it as the point from which the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven during the Night Journey. The gold dome – regilded in 1993 using gold donated by King Hussein of Jordan – is now one of the most recognisable silhouettes in the world.

The building’s proportions follow deliberate mathematical relationships: the dome diameter of 20.44 metres mirrors the drum height of 20.48 metres. The exterior is covered in blue, white, and green Ottoman tile, replacing the original Byzantine mosaics in the 16th century. The interior, which non-Muslims cannot enter, is covered with geometric and calligraphic decoration on almost every surface.

Access for Non-Muslims

Non-Muslim visitors can enter the Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif through the Mughrabi Bridge, a wooden ramp from the southern end of the Western Wall plaza – the only entry point for non-Muslims. Access is permitted Monday through Thursday only. Summer hours are approximately 7:30-11:00am and 1:30-2:30pm; winter hours 7:30-10:30am and 12:30-1:30pm. The site is closed to non-Muslims on Fridays, Saturdays, and during Islamic holidays. Hours and access can change without notice due to political or security conditions; verify with your hotel the day before.

Entry to the Temple Mount platform is free. Entry to the Dome of the Rock interior and Al-Aqsa Mosque is not permitted for non-Muslims. The exterior of the Dome can be approached and examined closely from the plaza. Dress code is strict: shoulders and knees covered for both men and women. No religious items, Bibles, or political symbols are permitted on the mount.

The Old City Around It

The Western Wall (Kotel), directly below the Mughrabi Bridge, is the holiest site in Judaism where prayer is permitted – a surviving retaining wall from Herod’s expansion of the Temple Mount. The plaza divides into men’s and women’s sections; men should cover their heads (paper kippot are available at the entrance). Accessible 24 hours.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre is about 500 metres northwest through the Muslim and Christian Quarters, built over the sites traditionally identified as the Crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus. Six Christian denominations share custody of the building under an arrangement so complex that the key to the main door has been held by a Muslim family since Saladin’s time. The interior is dense with chapels and religious art accumulated over 1,700 years.

Mahane Yehuda Market (the Shuk), about 2 km west in the western part of the city, functions as a produce and food market during the day and transitions into a restaurant and bar district in the evenings. It is among the better eating areas in Jerusalem.

Where to Eat

Machneyuda adjacent to Mahane Yehuda has been at the top of Jerusalem restaurant recommendations for years. The menu changes with market supply; the cooking is energetic and the room is loud. Reservations are essential.

Azura, older and more modest, serves Sephardic Jewish dishes slow-cooked since morning. Counter service, daily specials on a chalkboard, genuine food. The chamim and stuffed vegetables are what to order.

Arab bakeries in the Muslim Quarter along the Via Dolorosa sell ka’ak (sesame-crusted bread rings), za’atar flatbreads, and pastries at street level. Some of the cheapest and most satisfying eating in the Old City.

Where to Stay

American Colony Hotel in East Jerusalem is the most historically noted hotel in the city, a 19th-century Palestinian mansion that has hosted correspondents, diplomats, and writers for over a century. Expensive, worth considering.

Mamilla Hotel just outside the Jaffa Gate sits between the Old City and the western city and is well-positioned for access to both areas. The Hashimi Hotel inside the Muslim Quarter is a budget option with authentic Old City location.

Practical Notes

The Old City’s four quarters (Muslim, Christian, Jewish, Armenian) are compact and walkable; the main sites are all within 15-20 minutes of each other on foot. The political situation around the Temple Mount can change rapidly. Check access conditions before your visit. Jerusalem’s geography is hilly; comfortable walking shoes matter more than most cities.