Delhi: What to Prioritise and What to Skip

Delhi is enormous, chaotic, and frequently overwhelming on a first visit. It has 32 million people, seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and some of the worst air quality of any major city on earth. None of that is reason to avoid it. But going in with a clear plan matters more here than almost anywhere.

Old Delhi vs New Delhi

The Mughal old city around Chandni Chowk and the Red Fort is the most intense part of Delhi. Narrow lanes, rickshaws, competing smells, noise. The Red Fort (Lal Qila) is worth seeing from outside more than inside; the interior is fairly sparse after years of repurposing. Entry is ₹550 for foreigners.

Paranthe Wali Gali, the lane of fried bread shops in Chandni Chowk, is genuinely good. A plate of stuffed paratha with curd and pickle runs ₹80-150 and is filling enough for a meal. Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wale nearby does one of the better versions of dahi bhalla in the city.

The best monument in Delhi is Humayun’s Tomb in Nizamuddin, a 16th-century Mughal complex that directly prefigures the Taj Mahal. It’s less visited than the Red Fort, beautifully maintained, and the gardens are peaceful. Entry is ₹600 for foreigners. Go in the morning.

Qutub Minar

The 73-metre minaret in the south Delhi suburb of Mehrauli is genuinely impressive and the surrounding Iron Pillar (1,600 years old, remarkably uncorroded) is one of those objects that deserves more attention than it gets. Entry is ₹600. Combine it with Hauz Khas Village, a 20-minute drive away, for lunch.

Food

Indian Accent in the Lodhi Hotel is Delhi’s most interesting fine dining option; book well ahead. For budget eating, the dhaba culture near Mandi House metro is reliable. The Karim’s near Jama Masjid has been feeding people since 1913; the mutton korma and nihari are the things to order.

Getting Around

The Delhi Metro is fast, air-conditioned, and runs until 23:00. Use it as the backbone. Autorickshaws for shorter trips, negotiated before you get in. Ola and Uber work fine for longer distances.

Air Quality

October through January sees Delhi’s worst pollution episodes. Check AQI before long outdoor sessions. The worst days register above 400 on the AQI scale, which is hazardous for anyone. A quality N95 mask is worth packing regardless of season.