The Cuillin Hills, Skye: The Sharpest Mountains in Britain

The Black Cuillin on the Isle of Skye are the only mountains in Britain that require technical rock climbing skills to reach all of their summits. The main ridge runs 12 kilometres and connects 11 Munros (peaks above 3,000 feet); the traverse of the complete ridge in a single push is one of the most serious mountaineering objectives in the UK, typically taking 15-20 hours in good conditions by experienced climbers. Sgurr Alasdair, the highest point at 992 metres, requires a proper scramble even on the easiest route.

The Cuillin has its own weather system and the most unpredictable conditions in the UK – cloud, wind, and rain can close in completely within minutes from a clear start. If you have a fixed departure date and a specific summit objective, build at least three days of contingency.

The Geology

The Black Cuillin are gabbro: an igneous rock that provides exceptional friction for climbing, so coarse it wears through shoes unusually quickly but grips effectively when wet. The Red Cuillin to the east are red granite – rounder hills with more predictable terrain, walkable in standard hillwalking conditions. The Red Cuillin circuit above Glen Sligachan is one of the better full-day walks on Skye for non-technical walkers who want to be among the mountains without a rope.

Glenbrittle

The campsite at Glenbrittle beach is one of the more dramatically located in Britain: a grass field backed onto a gravel beach with the full profile of the Black Cuillin rising immediately behind. Over 120 tent pitches plus 35 electric hook-ups, a cafe and shop on site. Book through the John Muir Trust website; fills in July and August. There are no alternatives nearby.

Coire Lagan, 2.5 kilometres from the campsite, is a glacially-carved mountain bowl containing a lochan at 500 metres. The walk up takes about 1.5 hours from the car park and brings you to the base of the most technically demanding section of the main ridge. The 8 km round trip includes one short scramble section; don’t explore beyond the lochan unless you have solid scrambling experience. The surrounding geology – the rough black gabbro, the overhanging walls – is extraordinary at close range even if you go no further.

Getting a Guide

For anyone wanting to climb the Cuillin summits without existing technical mountaineering experience, hiring a guide is the practical and safe option. A guide can take clients up the Inaccessible Pinnacle (the only Munro requiring rock climbing to summit), specific scrambling ridges, or sections of the main traverse. Rock N Ridge Guides and Skye Mountain Guides are the established operators. Costs run around £250-300 per day for a private guide. This is the most efficient way to have a serious Cuillin experience without a multi-year training programme.

Portree and the Rest of Skye

Portree is the only town of any size on Skye, about 30 minutes north of Glenbrittle. The harbour has the row of coloured houses that photograph well. The Loch Bay Restaurant in Stein (Waternish peninsula) is the island’s Michelin-starred option – drive specifically for the seafood caught from the loch in front of the restaurant. Three Chimneys in Colbost on the Duirinish peninsula is the other significant dining destination.

The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Mallaig to Armadale in southern Skye (about 30 minutes; book ahead in summer) gives island access without the Skye Bridge, and the Mallaig approach via the West Highland Line from Glasgow is one of the more scenic rail journeys in Britain. Two to three days minimum does justice to the landscape; a day trip from Inverness by car is possible but genuinely limited.