German Christmas Markets: The Dresden Striezelmarkt Has Been Running Since 1434

That specific date is not marketing copy. The Striezelmarkt appears in city records from 1434, making it the oldest documented Christmas market in Germany and one of the oldest in Europe. The name comes from Stollen, the dried-fruit and marzipan bread that Dresden makes and sells here in loaves the size of a small child. You can trace an unbroken thread of commerce – people selling spiced baked goods and warm drinks in a German city square in late November – back nearly 600 years. The gluhwein may taste the same.

Germany runs somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 Christmas markets each year, from the famous city-centre spectacles to village markets with 20 stalls. Most open in late November and run to December 23 or 24. The ones listed here are the ones worth travelling for specifically.

Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt

The Nuremberg market runs from late November through December 24, filling the Hauptmarkt square below the Church of Our Lady. The market opens each year with a prologue speech by the “Christkind,” a girl chosen to represent the Christ child, who appears in white dress and golden crown on the gallery of the church. This ceremony dates to the 17th century.

The market’s specific products are legally protected by geographic designation: Nuremberg Lebkuchen (gingerbread) must be made within the city limits. The standard varieties are coated in white icing, chocolate, or left plain, and the quality range from mediocre souvenir tins to genuinely excellent small-batch productions is wide. Spend time at the stalls rather than buying the first display.

The old city of Nuremberg surrounding the market is well worth the daylight hours before the market atmosphere peaks: the Kaiserburg fortress, the German National Museum (the largest art and culture museum in German-speaking countries), and the Albrecht Durer House are all within a few minutes.

Dresden Striezelmarkt

Running from late November through December 24 in the Altmarkt square, the Dresden market is the oldest but has grown considerably in scale since 1434. The market features a giant wooden Christmas pyramid (one of the world’s tallest) and a traditional Saxon mining tradition display. The Dresdner Stollen sold here is the original – Dresden Stollen has protected geographic status, and the certified versions are signed and sealed.

Dresden’s Semperoper (opera house) and Frauenkirche (rebuilt and reopened in 2005 after its 1945 bombing destruction) are within walking distance of the market.

Cologne Christmas Markets

Cologne runs six separate themed markets across the city from mid-November through December 23. The Cathedral Market at the foot of the Gothic cathedral is the most photographed; the Old Town market on the Alter Markt is the largest; the Harbour Market in the Rheinauhafen warehouse district is the most atmospheric and least touristy.

Cologne Cathedral, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is free to enter. The cathedral market positions you so that the twin spires tower directly above the stalls.

What to Eat

Gluhwein is the universal constant: spiced red wine with cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and citrus, served hot. Recipes vary by region and by market stall. The mug typically has a deposit (1 to 3 euros) that you recover by returning it.

Langos (Hungarian fried bread with garlic and sour cream), Flammkuchen (Alsatian flatbread with creme fraiche and lardons), Bratwurst in bread with mustard, and roasted chestnuts are the standard walk-around food. The quality is consistent enough that stall food at any decent market is reliable.

Practical Tips

Book accommodation in Nuremberg, Dresden, and Cologne at least two months in advance for the December market period; prices rise steeply and availability drops. Weekdays are considerably less crowded than Saturdays. Evenings after dark produce the best atmosphere but the most people. Some stalls do not take card payments.

Wear layers and waterproof footwear; the cobblestones retain the cold and markets run regardless of rain and light snow. Arriving by train – Nuremberg, Dresden, and Cologne are all major rail hubs – is simpler than driving and parking during peak market weeks.