Capitol Hill

Constantino Brumidi spent 25 years decorating the interior of the United States Capitol and died in 1879 after falling from scaffolding while working on the dome friezes. The Apotheosis of Washington, the fresco on the ceiling of the Rotunda depicting George Washington ascending to heaven surrounded by Roman deities, is his most famous work. The degree to which this secular/religious conflation reflects American civil religion is a question that the Capitol building poses continuously without answering.

The Capitol

Free tours of the interior through the Capitol Visitor Center (visitthecapitol.gov; advance reservations required). The tour covers the Rotunda, Crypt, National Statuary Hall, and public galleries for both chambers. Tours run Monday through Saturday.

Statuary Hall: an acoustic peculiarity of the semicircular hall means a whisper at one spot is audible clearly across the room. John Quincy Adams reportedly used it to eavesdrop on private conversations when the chamber was in use.

Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Building (1897) immediately south of the Capitol: architecturally the finest building in Washington. The Great Hall and Main Reading Room dome (125 feet high, gilded and painted) are open for free tours throughout the day. The permanent exhibition displays a Gutenberg Bible and one of Jefferson’s draft manuscripts.

Supreme Court across First Street: the courtroom is open for public viewing when not in session (most of the year). When in session (October through June), public seating for oral arguments is first-come, first-served; arrive before 8am for high-profile cases.

Eastern Market

Six blocks southeast on Seventh Street SE, operating since 1873. Butchers, fishmongers, and produce vendors indoors on weekdays. Saturday outdoor section expands to arts, crafts, and farmers’ market. Market Lunch inside has served blueberry buckwheat pancakes and crab cakes since the 1970s; cash only, around USD 12 to 15 for breakfast.

Where to Eat

Ambar on Barracks Row (Eighth Street SE) does Balkan small plates (cevapi, burek) in an unlimited tasting format for around USD 40 to 55 per person. Book ahead. Ted’s Bulletin on Pennsylvania Avenue SE does American diner food that pulls the neighbourhood crowd rather than tourists.

Getting There

Metro: Capitol South station (Blue/Silver/Orange lines) is four blocks from the Capitol building. Most sites are walkable from there.